Culdaff - Dunowen (Campsite Area)

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Route Code Route Name Grade Sort No
  Kernaptious Corner HS 4c Edit Route Delete
  Peggy\'s Leg S 4a Edit Route Delete
  Peggy\'s Leg S 4a Edit Route Delete
 

The next routes are on Dunowen Wall, on the right of the bay, and are described seaward. The first is a poor route called Fernenst.

 Edit Route Delete
  Mearbeg Arete VD - Edit Route Delete
  Hellfire and Herring E1 5b Edit Route Delete
  Deliverance S 4a Edit Route Delete
  Fernenst S 4a Edit Route Delete
  Dreapadoireachta HS 4b Edit Route Delete
  Miss Conception S 4a Edit Route Delete
  Graina's Groove HS 4b Edit Route Delete
  Mingus Eyes VS 4b Edit Route Delete
  Blondes (Have more fun) VS 4c Edit Route Delete
  Jigs and Reels HVS 5a Edit Route Delete
  Glengad Girls HS 4b Edit Route Delete
  Honeysuckle E2 5a Edit Route Delete
  Kerry Widow HVS 5a Edit Route Delete
  Angels VS 4c Edit Route Delete
 

The next routes are on the Newfoundland area, and are accessed by abseil down the obvious slab at the end of the headland to a big ledge, (safe in most seas). Newfoundland is the big off-width crack, to the LHS of the ledge facing inland.

 Edit Route Delete
  Whiter Shade of Pale VS 4b Edit Route Delete
  Holy Deadlock D Edit Route Delete
  St Bodan\'s Boat S 4a Edit Route Delete
  St. Patrick's Fleas S 4a Edit Route Delete
  Foot 'n' Mouth VS 4c Edit Route Delete
 

Around the corner from Newfoundland, is a gully, a steep cracked corner (Willies Black Corner) and a slab.

 Edit Route Delete
  Newfoundland HS 4a Edit Route Delete
  Willie's Black Corner. E2 5c Edit Route Delete
  Passage West. HS 4b Edit Route Delete
  By Hook. VD 3c Edit Route Delete
 

The next section of cliff is the east wall of Dunowen Fort, and most of the routes are accessible at low tide from the bouldery beach.

 Edit Route Delete
  By Crooke*. S 3c Edit Route Delete
  Lockdown. HS 4b Edit Route Delete
  Outbreak HVS 5a Edit Route Delete
  Ballyharry Buoy HS 4a Edit Route Delete
  Seventeen HVS 5a Edit Route Delete
  Pandemonium VS 4c Edit Route Delete
  Icelander S 4a Edit Route Delete
  Bedlam S 4a Edit Route Delete
 

The next route is on the face opposite Dunowen East wall

 Edit Route Delete
  Chaos S 4a Edit Route Delete
  Hanging Corner E2 5c Edit Route Delete
 

Waterboys Slab is at the end of the promontory of Hanging Corner.  Descent is by abseil.  There are 4 thin routes on the slab, and two others on the short dark wall just beyond.

 Edit Route Delete
  Dinky Dolmen D - Edit Route Delete
  Touch VS 4c Edit Route Delete
  Voiding the Touch VS 4c Edit Route Delete
  Don't bang the drum VS 5b Edit Route Delete
  Fisherman's Blues E2 5b Edit Route Delete
  Curly VS 4c Edit Route Delete
 

On the east side of the Waterboys headland are a number of routes, which were not recommended by the first ascentionist, (and probably done since).

 Edit Route Delete
  Larry HVS 5a Edit Route Delete
  Orange Slash HS 4b Edit Route Delete
  The Dungpile. VS 4c Edit Route Delete
  The Fred Dibnah Job. S 4a Edit Route Delete
  The Talkin Head. VS 4c Edit Route Delete
  Too Feckin Short! VS 5a Edit Route Delete
 

 

The cliff across Mad Port from Orange Slash etc. Cross some rocks onto a grassy island ( at high tide only). This is Sheep Island and belongs to Colmcille Climbers. Access a ramp on the LHS and descend to the base of a wall above the sea (known locally as Mad Port). This is Madrox.

 

OS Grid Reference: C539 510

 

 Edit Route Delete
  The Unused Rope E1 5b Edit Route Delete
  Father Ted VS 4b Edit Route Delete
  Father Jack HVS 5a Edit Route Delete
  Dougal S 4a Edit Route Delete
  Dougal Direct VS 4c Edit Route Delete
  Mrs Doyle S 4a Edit Route Delete
  Trustees VS 4b Edit Route Delete
  Crow- Vid VS 4b Edit Route Delete