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Dunmore and Muckross bumbling

Date: May 2010 - June 2010
Submitted by: Rodders

Started the trad season late this year due to course work and an extended bouldering stint (see previous report). Don't really do enough these days to warrant a log report for each week so heres a wee update of the year so far... 

I had hoped that my decent bouldering form would translate directly onto the routes. Unfortunately when you've crap rope work, climb really slow and are scared of heights it doesn't really work that way!

After a pretty disasterous start to the year doing Simple Minds E1 at Fairhead with a restpoint and backing of Elvis E3 at Muckross, followed by a few weeks of soul searching and depression, my trad season is now finally up and running (just). Over the past month or so Julie and myself have made a few visits to my 2 favourite donegal crags Dunmore Head and Muckross head.

So far I've managed to tick though Orange Blossom HS, Diversion HS, Grecian Gift VS, Colamity Collins VS, Cheating Bitch S(solo), Master of Puppets HVS at Dunmore, as well as Flake out S(solo), Boho Dance S, Froth HS, Morning Glory HS,Cois Farraige VS, Tricky Dicky VS, Primula VS (the hardest vs in the world!), Mickey Mouse E1, Pitchfork Wit E1 and Scut E2 5a (solo, the easiest E2 in the world). No "Big ticks" just yet, but some really good routes at these 2 beautiful crags. Highlights for me were Primula a really exciting VS(HVS?) and onsiting Pitchfork wit a tricky wee Al Millar gem that I had my eye on for a while. Julie hasn't led much this year so far but did a smooth lead of Orange blossom and has comfortably and patiently followed all of the above (10 years after the first reported out break of Frozen Belayer Syndrome!)!

We also had a couple of bouldering sessons(yawn!) at muckross doing some of Michael Duffys probs up to font 6b+, with ex Derry power house Marc Canning and also had a brief visit to Echo Rock to try dave millars mega Split Arete font 6b+/E4, which I got rained off, but will be back because its awesome!

There you go folks, a quiet year so far compared to some of you but hopefully some exciting times ahead for the remainder of 2010!

Happy Climbing,



14 Jun 2010

oops uploaded the compressed jpg by mistake. Will send you the right photo later pete!

16 Jun 2010
Peter Cooper

Rodders glad your back at the trad and college-stuff is over. I'm possibly considering banning (joking here) you from your favourite crags and any route youv'e climbed before, so you can experience new adventures in Donegal. I'm sure a change of scenery would reinvigorate you no end, I'll look forward to your reports. Make your 2010 a year to remember. That goes for the rest of you too! Me I'll just rest on my big fat a...

16 Jun 2010

What there's other crags?!! Ha ha good call pete, as you know by now I'm not the adventurous type, but agreed will try and get out more!

Photo of Route