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Marconi's Cove

Date: 21/07/2012
Submitted by: George Carleton

Seeing that I was the contact for a Fairhead meet on the weekend of the 21st / 22nd I put out word on the forum to see who might be interested in a days climbing.

John, Gerard, Mike and I met up on the 21st and headed for Marconi's Cove, a great wee crag that tends to get overlooked being separated from the main climbing areas.

The conditions were perfect; warm, dry rock and a slight breeze to keep the midges away.

Gerard and Mike made a team and I was climbing with John, between us we climbed Drimadoon HVS (5a), Cat's Whiskers * VS (4c), Fat City VS (4c), Caribou HVS (5a), Blue VS (4c), North Ship HVS (5b), and Paudee HVS (5b).

I made an attempt on The Wrestler E1 5c but soon realised I was nowhere near strong enough and lowered off.

Mike found North Ship an interesting challenge with its bold and technical finish.

I had an interesting experience on Paudee which was the last route of the day; having surmounted the crux and not having put in another piece of gear the middle finger on my right hand closed and locked involuntarily, I pried it open with my teeth still holding on with my left hand, I shook my hand and arm vigorously eventually feeling and control returned, then the same thing happened to the left hand and I had to repeat the procedure to get feeling to return. Having gotten control of my wayward digits I was able to get in protection and finish the climb.

It was a great days climbing and all the routes were well worth doing and deserving at least one star.

If you haven't climbed there before it makes a good alternative to the usual venues at the Head.

23 Jul 2012

Good time had by all it sounds. I could not get out as working but went to Malin Head on the Sunday where it drizzled. Ended up at Culdaff for a dry, hot but breezy day

Photo of Route