'Show me the way to Adamello'. |
Date: July 2013 Submitted by: alantees . It was a long drive through Holland, Germany and Austria, but we arrived in Temu, to a really nice campsite and a warm welcome from those already there. Events are well described elsewhere, but to summarise, we went to the Brenta Dollies for 4 days on the classic via ferrata, ably organised by James. The 'Alte' was closed due to late snowfall, but the 'Centrali' was awesome. The next objective was the Presanella 3558m, monarch of the area. It got a bit messy, but I did the Spigolo Centrali with Conn and James, a deathtrap of loose granite. Quite enjoyed it... The highest medieval excavation site in Europe, and a WWI Via Ferrata were visited in the second week, but the highlight of this final period of the MI Meet, was the hiring if an electric mountain bike which gave me legs like Lance Thingy, or Wiggie whatshisname. Must see what they cost..... Moved through Switzerland to La Grave for a go at the Meije with Jack. One of the problems was the fact that, as we had not intended to be there, we had no map or guide book description. The map was no problem, and Jack was able to download a route description in French, which we put into Google Translate. One bit read,' Traverse left, approach a fireplace (111),climbed on the right, with the higher fireplace taken direct, to level with a characteristic policeman'!!! I copied out a topo drawing in the hut. Sorted. It was a six hour approach to the Refuge Promontaire, and we spent the late afternoon checking the route above the hut, as we were starting at 3.00 AM in the dark. We intended to climb the Promontaire, and descend the same way, maybe not such a good idea. (The refuge warden didn't think it was anyway). It was great climbing on lovely granite, never that difficult, but never, ever easy. Up thePromontaire ridge to Le Camp Desmoiselles, over the slabs, up chimneys, and the couloir. I could tell Jack wasn't 100% happy as we scanned the ledges above. He was concerned about the weather, which I wasn't, and the descent, which I was! We were only half way up, climbing together, and had taken 3 hours. 5-6 hours is the guide book time, but it was now light, so that wasn't bad. What was obvious to both of us was that the descent would be complicated, tricky, take much longer, we would be tired, and any mistake was not an option. At this junction fate took a hand when cloud blew in (making us very aware of the difficulties of finding our way down, and then Jack discovered that he had left his food in the refuge. Decision made!. Three and a half hours later we were back at the hut. The warden wasn't surprised, and was relieved to see us back! Of the four pairs that set out, three had turned back by the time we started descending to La Berarde. . Jack left for Chamonix, and we for Chartreuse (just N of Grenoble)where we had a great, and big! day out on the Dent De Crolles. Then home via Bourg en Bresse, Epernay, Canterbury, and Chester. 06 Aug 2013 Traverse of the Meije is the best alpine route I have ever done. It took us 3 days and we were very fit. 1 day alone for the Promontoire ridge so no disgrace turning back. (Never a disgrace in turning back of course!) 08 Aug 2013 Good for you Alfie. Joss Lynam always said it was the best thing he had ever done too! Should have tackled it 30 years ago (or even 10!) |
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06 Aug 2013
Alfie Conn
Traverse of the Meije is the best alpine route I have ever done. It took us 3 days and we were very fit. 1 day alone for the Promontoire ridge so no disgrace turning back. (Never a disgrace in turning back of course!)