Route Number: 10

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Master of Puppets

Location: Culdaff - Dunmore Head
Grade: HVS  5b
Length: 15m
First ascent: P Dunlop,R Dunlop, N Mooney
Route Description:
The roof right of Tina's Crack and left of Grecian Gift. Up crack to ledge, up slab to thin traverse right under roof before feeling for the weakness and pulling over the lip onto the slab.


Alek Zholobenko - 03/08/2011
Ofcourse I only seconded this classy beast, so I'm not one to talk about the difficulty, however, I'd leave the grade as it is. Perhaps it is 5a, perhaps 5b, however, this depends on how well you can read blind moves (aka, whether you inspected it carefully from below) and on where you place the gear before the crux. In addition, I'd leave the grade at HVS, because if you do fall from the crux, it's not a slim chance of wrecking an ankle. Also, in my opinion, Topsail, while a similar one move wonder, has a significantly easier, even if the crux is equally weird and wonderful.

Emma Clarke - 17/04/2011
This is class route. I seconded it there a few weeks ago and led it yesterday. I remember it being harder on second (because the holds had gear in them). It's a powerful enough wee move but I wouldn't say 5b. I suggest VS 5a because it's safe where you want it and the climbing is relatively straightforward until the move and after the move. Thanks

Kevin Kilroy - 26/03/2011
Did this today after watching Rodney on it, so knew a little about the gear and moves. Regardless, this is a fantastic route, brilliant rock and cool holds and gear. Very safe. I've done a pile of HVS 5b's on grit of a very similar style in the last 3 months - Roof Route at Rivelin, Jeepers Creepers at STanage, Suicide Wall at Cratcliff, and slightly easier - Top Sail (VS4c) at Birchen. All of which are significantly harder than this. I recomend a grade of VS 4c and 3 stars based on this comparison. Dunmore is better than most grit crags too. : ) And I am biased cause I'm from down the road! :P

Rodders - 18/09/2009
Hi Pete, No bother contact me any time if you want my opinions! Take what I say about Culdaff with a pinch of salt as I'm a tad bias. I try and be objective about it but I'm a big fan of the rock and style of climbing there and genually feel that some of the routes - Grecians Gift, 10cc, ruthless people etc. are as good as any I've climbed anywhere. Others aren't so good of course. The fact that a lot of the routes were put up by people I know and admire (the dunlops, millars, grimer etc.) does add a little something extra for me so maybe others people don't think as much of the place which is fair enough. But yeah I think some of the routes are really good there and MoPs is one of them. catch you later!

Peter Cooper - 17/09/2009
Hi, good points and well put. This is what's needed to be heard. I'll contact you regards others but keep posting comments.

Rodders - 12/09/2009
Hi Pete. To my knowledge this route was always 2 stars in the guide and I saw it polled recently as one of the best HVSs in Ireland on another website(seriously!)along with Hells Kitchen, great balls of fire etc.I'm not sure about Ireland but its certainly for me one of the best HVSs in Donegal. Yes its just the crux but thats the nature of the route and the type of rock.I can think of other equivelant routes like Flying butress direct, quietus or elvis that are essentially just cruxes but are still classics.The grit is full of them. Thats just my opinion but yeah for me this would be a 2 star route. If this was only one star then only 10cc , grecians gift and wall rock would get 2 stars at dunmore in my oppinion, as only these are better and very little else would get a star. Thats my pennys worth.

Peter Cooper - 11/09/2009
Really enjoy this route for its crux, but that's it. Definately a good one for the crag but would you really recommend this as being one of the best HVS' in Donegal, that's what 2 stars is about?

Rodders - 10/09/2009
Well protected route with a hard crux but easy if you know how ;) 2 stars for sure and I believe Metallica named their best album after this route.

Pete Smith - 29/04/2008
Committing route with the ledge beckoning from below if you slip at the crux. Try to place some gear on the lip to make it safer.

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