Route Number: 1508

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Hellfire and Herring * *

Location: Culdaff - Dunowen (Campsite Area)
Grade: E1  5b
Length: 8m
First ascent: P.Cooper & M. McGuigan 26/04/08
Route Description:
Down on the left, as you look in from the land, a steep 8M arete can be found that has a pair cracks, which become 3 at the top. Scramble up right to ledge and climb these. Belay well back. 1 rest on 1st ascent. (Later led clean PC & GT 11/05/08.) FFA George Carleton and Michael Hasson 6th-ish May 08. 

Photo of Route
PC's new bouldering problem at Dunowen!!! - George and Michael climb.

andrewtees1981 - 03/05/2023
Followed George on this at the weekend. In my opinion it deserves it\'s current grade of E1... While the climbing isn\'t that hard I found it v pumpy, and stopping to place gear would have been even more exhausting. For that reason I think it\'s a tricky lead, and too serious for HVS. Great little route though!

georgec - 30/04/2023
Cleaned before leading. Possibly HVS 5a /5b. Thought the protection was good and the route is worth a Star. Good route and well worth doing.

George C - 04/08/2010
You must have a better memory than me Pete, I’m just saying it as i remembered, it was over 2 years ago after all. I will check with Mike when i next time see him. The whole FFA, clean, onsight, with or without beta thing doesn’t mean a lot to me anyway. It's a good line and well spotted on your part and could do with a few more ascents to clarify the grade.

Rodders - 04/08/2010
Didn't george just say he did lead it clean which would have been the FFA? Anyway it looks good no matter who did the FFA and I'll certainly take a look next time I'm down.

Peter Cooper - 04/08/2010
Ah, mystery solved. When George related his account I recalled the rest on rope due to pump, not a complete clean re-climb. It's a nice line worthy of attention.

Pete - 03/08/2010
Dang! Rodders is right.

Rodders - 03/08/2010
Good effort both off you and big Pete, it must be a tough number and I'm sure theres better candidates than me for the first OS if you guys struggled. What I was alluding to was that Pete you've said that you did it free on 11/05/08 but george's post is 06/05/08 which would mean his ascent was 1st unless he has a time machine? Anyways doesn't matter to me! Looks good will check it out sometime.

George C - 03/08/2010
From my recollection I got pumped, was lowered off and then led it clean. It would be good to have another opinion on the grade.

Rodders - 02/08/2010
Am I misreading this thread or has george not done the FFA?

Peter Cooper - 02/08/2010
Hi Rodder's, your'e correct George didn't get the FFA. I couldn't sleep at night after that 1st ascent with a rest, so I went back and did it clean; to remove the dark mark from my soul - hence clear note with the route description. If my recall is correct, George may have had to take a rest on it too. I would give it a try and let us know what you think. You'd have the first on-sight ascent!

PC - 15/06/2008
Just for the record I got a clean ascent of this 11 May 08, with Geoff Thomas on belay.

George Carleton - 06/05/2008
Nearly fell off this myself, Felt harder than E1 to me; gear not to bad but tricky to place when you need it the most. A pumpy little adventure of a climb!

Peter Cooper - 29/04/2008
Would-be 2nd ascentionist Pete McConnel nearly met the ground, falling from this, when his gear ripped, not a recommended feat to repeat! Better luck next time.

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