Route Number: 583

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The Banned Wagon * *

Location: Muckross Head
Grade: E4 6a
Length: 18m

First ascent: BCallan, N Grimes (6/91)

Route Description:

Climb the big corner right of Wily Coyote, easily at first but with more difficulty as you approach your appointment with the big roof. Make a hard move up to the roof (F1.5 under it) and struggle over it (crux) to a rest on the wall above. Go a couple of metres right and start careering out the fabulous juggy overhang above. Continue till just below the top and as your energy banks have just about reached zero, make a hard move up the short headwall to the top.

Comments

niall grimes - 09/05/2011
Good route. A direct start is possible, maybe just a bit bold.