Route Number: 630

Back to Crag | Back to Guidebook | Back to Home Page

Pump up the Vallium * *

Location: Muckross Head
Grade: E3  6a
Length: 18m
First ascent: D O'Sullivan, J Dugdale (5/91)
Route Description:

To the right of Primula is a steep buttress containing two routes which are surely as good as anything Madagascar has to offer.

A breath-taking and pumpy route that bludgeons its way up perfect overhanging rock on the left side of the buttress. Start 1m right of Primula below a short, wide crack. Go up to a wide break and then the break above. Traverse right for 2m where you stick in your biggest hexes and friends. Shift into first gear now and beef your way up the overhanging wall above (crux) At the juggy break above (wires on the left) move on up and left to a ledge where your grossly abused forearms, having by now been turned to quivering aspic, can have a well-earned rest. From here, step back right and finish up the flying groove above. Definitely one to do


Comments

Dave Millar - 25/06/2018
Agree with Kevin. Climbed this 15 years ago n exciting climbing n lovely route.

kevin kilroy - 24/06/2018
Amazing route. A bit of everything and plenty of pump!

Leave a Comment You must be logged in to leave a comment