Colmcille Climbers

Rodders - 03/08/2010
Thanks paul. I soloed scut can I get an E6 tick please?

Paul Brennan - 03/08/2010
For clarification, Intercert (6a) is a highball boulder problem. Bird Brain does have a route grade. Technical grade of 6b and E6 to solo or E2 to do with a side runner.

Columba - 02/08/2010
There are 2 climbs in Dalkey Quarry that have Technical Grades only and are not given E-Grades. INTERCEPT 6a and BIRDBRAIN 6c. Food for thought

Rodders - 01/08/2010
Didn't dermot say it doesn't warrent an e-grade? I'd concur with this. I'd say VS 5b.

Peter Cooper - 31/07/2010
Should have tagged this onto the above: 1979's Malinbeg guide gave the grade 'XS' and Dawson's 1985 Donegal guide gave it 'E2 5c'. By the time Alan's 2002 Rock Climbs in Donegal was published it had become E2 5a. It may have taken some time but via some healthy and mature debate (careful we're climbers!!!) it seems the grade is now established at E1 5b. Good thing this on-line guide!

Peter Cooper - 31/07/2010
Not stirring up old arguments here but there is a VS 6a slate climb in Wales and you definitely get E2 5as'. Anyway Dermot Somers opinion is this: "the grade E2, 5a, seems very odd for 'Scut', route 3. "I'd say it's more of a 5b boulder-problem that shouldn't have an E-grade at all? As far as history goes, it certainly wasn't me that came up with the current grade!" (via e-mail 30/07/2010).

rodders - 09/08/2009
last post from me on this but i enjoyed the banter. Soloed this today so would say its easy if you know how. Can't decide if its HVS 5b, E1 5b or E1 5c. I'm definite its mot E2 5a because E2 5a isn't even a grade and if it was would suggest its really easy but very serious of which its neither. I'll go for E1 5b\c because people do struggle but think its easier than mickey mouse which gets the same grade. Or highball font 5b with a mat but we're in ireland here so lets not confuse things :). n.b stu flashed this today which was a fine effort as he's only climbed 3 routes in 6 years.

Chris McDaid - 08/08/2009
Theres no such thing as 5b+ & 5c- thats why :-)

Alan - 07/08/2009
Comment column now longer than the route! Good stuff, keep it goin.

P Tinney - 04/08/2009
Why not HVS 5b+ or HVS 5c- then?

Chris McDaid - 26/07/2009
Rodders, good compromise. Either HVS or E15b. Fact is, the crux aint significantly harder than the crux on Cois Farraige to be honest. It'd be a sad state of affairs if a simple pull up and heel hook move on huge jugs was graded 6a, dont you think?

rodders - 25/07/2009
ok HVS 5b then :)...

rodders - 24/07/2009
Thought we agreed that it was probably 5c?:)You just think it might be 5b whereas I think its not. Comparitive to other 5b moves I've done on routes its definitely harder as a single move but overall a very easy route.The Elvis Crux is also a pullup on massive jugs and the crux on scut is not any easier, just elvis is a wee bit more sustained. Not really much of a route to be bothered about anway to be honest,more of a boulder problem.

Chris McDaid - 24/07/2009
We'll agree to differ then. The crux is just a pull up on massive jugs. Top end 5b or easy 5c

rodders - 23/07/2009
Disagree, I think the move is at least 5c, definitely not 5b. The reason it feels so easy is that the route is so short and easy bar the crux. How about HVS 5c then?

Chris McDaid - 21/07/2009
6a? Not in a million years. Top end 5b, possibly 5c

Rodders - 15/07/2009
I'd say VS 6a for this if such a grade existed, but as it doesn't E1 5c or E1 6a is probably closer to the mark.

P Tinney 7-9-2008 - 07/09/2008
Climbed scut today,the big rectangle slab about 3ft x 2ft with the good holds moved slightly. So be careful when swinging out it might come off.

Chris McDaid - 06/05/2008
Never E2 5a in a million years. E1 5c is prob more accurate. Very well protected climb