Name: MI winter meet Onich
Start: 2025-02-08T08:00:00+00:00
End: 2025-02-15T17:00:00+00:00

Crag Number: 146

Malin Laundry

Directions: Malin Laundry* is the provisional name given to an area East of "Sea Area Malin" * The name derives from the white foam/ clean rock thereabouts. Malin Laundry West. A small wall at the bottom of a spiky ridge Gr 38745 59442, surrounded by scrambling par excellence! 2/. Malin Laundry East. This wall is just opposite the most Easterly of 3 off shore islands. Descent is by a grassy/rocky ridge and scramble (or abseil) down into a protected trough. Gr 38849 59474 OS Grid Reference: 38745 5944

Malin Laundry West is about 200m East of the top of Dawson's Diedre. At Gr38790 59424, descend spiky ridge, and down towards the sea, there is a small sea facing wall, (hidden from view higher up). Approach from the left to a ledge at the bottom.
Inter-Route Note
1 - Hangover S - Length: 12m Alfie Conn and Trevor Hartley 26/7/2012 A couple of metres right of the obvious crack (Magdalen Maid) is a series of step like depressions. Follow this line, over the bulge and the short wall above. Small wires are useful
2 - Magdalen Maid S 4a Length: 12m Alan Tees, Bill Magowan 21/09/08 About 200m East of the top of Dawson's Diedre, descend spiky ridge, and down towards the sea, there is a small sea facing wall, (hidden from view higher up). Approach from the left to a ledge at the bottom. This route goes up a crack on the right of the wall (as you face it) to a ledge, then a further crack goes up leftwards through the upper wall.
3 - Suds HVS 5a Length: 11m P.Cooper & G.Thomas 21/09/2008 The slab left of Magdalen Maid. Led on-sight, in drizzle, just for fun. Better to do when dry as gear not plentiful.
4 - Crockodile VD - Length: 11m Trevor Hartley and Alfie Conn 26/7/2012 Just left of suds is an obvious corner. Follow it trending right over the slab as the angle eases

Malin Laundry East is approx 100m East of Malin Laundry West. Descend grassy/rocky ridge at gr 38822 59428, parallel with the sea, to opposite the most easterly and largest of three offshore islands. Either scramble down, or abseil to a long narrow pool/trough of seawater, separated from the ocean by a fin of rock.
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5 - Presidents' Corner * HVS 5a Length: 10m Peter Cooper, Alan Tees 28/04/09 About 10M East of Shipping News is a shorter, sharper, steeper corner. Climb it!
6 - FFS E1 5b Length: 13m P.Cooper & A.Tees 28/04/2009 3M left of Shipping News is a shallow crack line which joins Shipping.. to finish. Led on-sight. A bit tight on gear, a bit scary and just a bit pumpy.
7 - Shipping News * * VS 4b Length: 12m Alan Tees, Peter Cooper 28/04/09 Shipping News takes the right angled corner/crack above the rounded boulder that forms a short causeway across the trough. Steep climbing on good holds.
8 - Deadman's Fingers VS 4b Length: 18m Alan Tees, Bill Magowan 9/03/10 This takes the slab just right of "Shipping News". Start down at the boulder in the trough, climb up to an overhanging corner, which is surmounted to gain the upper slab. Thinish climbing, with thinner protection (wires) leads to the top.
9 - Second Thoughts VD - Length: 10m Damien Connolley, Alfie Conn ,Jim Church 12/7/15 Just to the left of "Lutine Belle" is an arete and just to the left of that is a crack. Climb it until a ramp leads right. Go up it to exit
10 - Plastic Breadbin S 4a Length: 14m Alan Tees Peter Cooper 28/04/09 Just West of "Shipping News" where the rock fin descends to ground level, scramble up to the base of a recessed wall with an overhanging crack on its RHS. Climb the short wall on good jugs, and continue up the slab above, until forced left to the base of an obvious hanging corner. Climb it to the top.
11 - Lutine Belle S 4a Length: 20m Alan Tees, Bill Magowan 9/03/10 This climbs the diedre a few metres left of "Galway Hooker", starting from a shallow pool. At the top of a slab is a short wall with a vertical crack, avoid it, traverse right to a corner and continue up on delightful jugs and good protection to the top.
12 - Niamh\'s Route* HS 4a Length: 15m Geoff Thomas, Alfie Conn, Niamh McManus. May 19 Start as for Galway Girl, but move left onto the slab above the pool, and ascend to a corner. Climb the corner and continue, with a couple of Options to the top. Enjoyable route
13 - Galway Girl * S 4a Length: 14m Alan Tees, Peter Cooper 28/04/09 10-15m west of Plastic Breadbin there is an unusual deep pool with a rounded rock in the bottom. Just beyond this, climb the obvious corner cracks to a stance, and either continue up steeply on spikes and jugs, or (better) step left and climb the left wall which is more delicate and longer.

The following routes are on a fin of rock which separates the crag from the swells.

14 - 2009, Rising D Length: 15m Alan Tees 28/04/09 This takes the left to right rising crack up the side of the rock fin that separates the trough from the Atlantic.
15 - East Ridge D - Length: 45m Alfie Conn, Margaret Quinn 28 May 2016 Add route description here... Start at the bottom of the Fin's East Ridge and follow it to the top. 1.40m ish scramble along the ridge, with an increase in interest, to belay below the short face. 2. 5m Go up the face
16 - Dolphin D - Length: 10m Des O'Connor and Alfie Conn. June 2014 At the right hand end of the fin, there is an overlap. Start 1m to its left and go up to the overhang. Turn that on the right.
17 - White Vein S 4b Length: 10m Jim Church, Damien Connolley, Alfie Conn 12/7/15 From the Eastern end of the fin, a quartz vein trends ascending left. Follow it. Thinner move (crux) to finish.
18 - Sloop S - Length: 8m Alfie Conn, Damien Connolley, Jim Churchurch 12/7/15 Add route description here... At the Eastern end of the fin is a black dyke. Climb it
19 - Blue Moon VD - Length: 10m Alfie Conn, Sean Sharkey Start as for Rising and follow it for a couple of meters until an obvious traverse line can be followed to a couple of steep moves. A few moves right and then it\'s obvious to move to the top
20 - 30 Foot Wall D - Length: 9m Alfie conn and Trevor Hartley 25/08/13 From the bridge across the pool start right along the crack of "rising" for about a metre. Then go straight up.

These routes are further west, and you will probably have passed them if you scramble down from that direction.

21 - Arial HS 4b Length: 12m Trevor Hartley and Alfie Conn 25/8/2013 Where the rock fin comes down to ground level scramble up the flake opposite. There is an obvious traverse left. Take this and then an obvious traverse right on a protection free ramp. This leads to an obvious corner. Its obvious really.
22 - Chuckle Chimney D - Length: 8m Pamela Jane Monaghan mostly Continue West for a wheen of metres and you will fall ovet this lovely short, clean, chimney which provides a delightful scramble.
23 - Our Fault Entirely S 4a Length: 14m Alan Tees, Pamela Jane Monaghan 18/09/09 This is less of a rock climb and more of a rock feature, which simply could not be ignored! Another 15m or so West of Chuckle Chimney is a fissure too wide for mechanical friends and too narrow for human ones. Get up it whatever way you can!
24 - Stonegg VS 4c Length: 15m Martin McGuigan, Alan Tees Sept 2010 Start as for "Our Fault" but take the steep right hand crack to a ledge. Climb the short slab and corner above (crux)
25 - Timmy's Route D - Length: 8m Alfie Conn and Trevor Hartley 21/8/2011 Start as for "spurdog" Follow the right to left crack across the black slab and finish up the quartzy slab
26 - Spurdog VD 3c Length: 5m Alan Tees, Bill Magowan 9/03/10 Beyond (West of) "Our Fault" is a short black slab with a right to left rising crack in it. This takes the obvious layback crack on it's right hand side.