Name: Midsummer trip
Start: 2024-06-21T00:00:00+00:00
End: 2024-06-23T23:59:59+00:00

Crag Number: 159

Leenan Head
Leenan - Uranuslab Area
Directions: Access from Derry is over Mamore Gap to Leenan, turning right before the pier, and parking at the bridge over the moat, Gr 300444. Continue on foot through the ruined fort, and the crag is just South of the small sea stack "Leenan Needle". The routes are on the slabs forming the South side of two or three prominent corners. OS Grid Reference: C296465 Click here to view location in Google Maps
01 - Colonic Irrigation D 3c Length: 18m Alan Tees, Bill Magowan 7/03/10 Abseil down the right hand side of Uranus Slab (the slab forming the South side of the most Northerly corner) to a fine ledge above the water level, and right of, a cave. Follow the groove, first steeply, and then more easily to the top.
02 - Haemorrhoids S 4a Length: 18m Alan Tees, Bill Magowan, 7/03/10 Abseil down the centre of the slab to gain the ledge, (further right of "Colonic Irrigation"). Surmount the short impending wall on small footholds and continue up the centre of Uranus slab
03 - Colonic Hydrotherapy D - Length: 20m Alan Tees, Bill Magowan, 7/03/10 Ab down Uranus, to a small platform at sea level, at the base of the arete, (being careful not to be swept away)!Climb back up the arete, steeply at first, but on jugs, and then more easily.
04 - Leenan Arete D - Length: 18m Alan Tees, Bill Magowan 7/03/10 Ab down the corner just South of "Uranus" to belay above wave level. Traverse out right, and continue up easily, but airily to the top on the arete.
05 - Leenan Needle VD 3c Length: 20m I. Miller, B. Whelan 11/06/10 Lenan NeedleGrid Ref C296446. This route climbs the easy angled South Face of the Wee sea stack just off Lenan Head. Access is by Abseil to the tidal platforms facing the southern end of the stack, followed by a short atmospheric sea passage.
6 - Loophole D - Length: 30m NWMC 1/06/1955 This route is on the Urris Hills just above Leenan Bay. Walk up to Gr316429, where there is an outcrop of rock facing east on the upper flank of the second summit from Mamore Gap. The route is described as an arete, followed by a tunnel, a slabby corner, and a final awkward corner. There is a slab alternative to the initial arete, on it's right.