Crag Number: 159
Leenan Head |
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Leenan - Uranuslab Area |
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Directions: Access from Derry is over Mamore Gap to Leenan, turning right before the pier, and parking at the bridge over the moat, Gr 300444. Continue on foot through the ruined fort, and the crag is just South of the small sea stack "Leenan Needle". The routes are on the slabs forming the South side of two or three prominent corners. OS Grid Reference: C296465 Click here to view location in Google Maps |
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Length: 18m Alan Tees, Bill Magowan 7/03/10 Abseil down the right hand side of Uranus Slab (the slab forming the South side of the most Northerly corner) to a fine ledge above the water level, and right of, a cave. Follow the groove, first steeply, and then more easily to the top.
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Length: 18m Alan Tees, Bill Magowan, 7/03/10 Abseil down the centre of the slab to gain the ledge, (further right of "Colonic Irrigation"). Surmount the short impending wall on small footholds and continue up the centre of Uranus slab
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Length: 20m Alan Tees, Bill Magowan, 7/03/10 Ab down Uranus, to a small platform at sea level, at the base of the arete, (being careful not to be swept away)!Climb back up the arete, steeply at first, but on jugs, and then more easily.
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D -Length: 18m Alan Tees, Bill Magowan 7/03/10 Ab down the corner just South of "Uranus" to belay above wave level. Traverse out right, and continue up easily, but airily to the top on the arete.
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Length: 20m I. Miller, B. Whelan 11/06/10 Lenan NeedleGrid Ref C296446. This route climbs the easy angled South Face of the Wee sea stack just off Lenan Head. Access is by Abseil to the tidal platforms facing the southern end of the stack, followed by a short atmospheric sea passage.
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D -Length: 30m NWMC 1/06/1955 This route is on the Urris Hills just above Leenan Bay. Walk up to
Gr316429, where there is an outcrop of rock facing east on the upper
flank of the second summit from Mamore Gap. The route is described
as an arete, followed by a tunnel, a slabby corner, and a final
awkward corner. There is a slab alternative to the initial arete, on
it's right.
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| Lenan Head. GR305452. From the corner as the road turns along the
coast 500m accross the field to an obvious large square block. NW
facing. Ab to big ledge.Tidal . Beware big waves!Add route description
here... |
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Length: 27m Tim Fogg , Carroll O'Dolan 16/8/20 Start up a steep juggy wall at the left edge (looking in) of the
ledge. Climb up the the bulge , pass it on the right and finish on top
of the large block.
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Length: 22m Tim and Pam Fogg , Carrol O'Dolan 16/8/20 3. Climb straight up to the right edge of the big block.
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Length: 22m H M and TF 20/7/21 Two metres left of Humdinger . Start up a crack to reach an overlap
pull over this and f inish straight to arrive at the Big Block
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Length: 26m Tim Fogg , Carroll O'Dolan 16/8/20 26m ** Climb the obvious deep cracked corner to the overhang, pass it
on the right
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Length: 12m Tim Fogg , Carroll O'Dolan 16/8/20 Climb the right hand edge of the small slab on dubious rock with not
much gear.
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Length: 18m Tim Fogg , Carroll O'Dolan 16/8/20 Right of Humdoodle towards the caves. Belay where the ledge starts to
get smaller. Traverse to the arete, up this and on up a bobbely slab.
Slightly left to finish over easy ground
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| GR 297426 Headland with two arches. SW face. 1 mile SW from
Leenankeel. All ab in. Tidal . Beware big waves! Four routes left of
the seaward arch. |
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Inter-Route Note |
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Length: 20m David Scott, Carroll O'Dolan , Pam and Tim Fogg 8/8/20 leftmost of Four routes left of the seaward arch. Climb the broken
arete moving right on a ledge to finish up the exposed arete.
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Length: 20m Tim Fogg , Carroll O'Dolan , Pam Fogg 15/8/20 Climb the twin cracks three metres left of 'Bob the sheep'
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Length: 20m Tim Fogg , Carroll O'Dolan , David Scott 8/8/20 Hard V.diff *** Climb the perfect arete left of the arch. Great
position.
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Length: 18m TF and HM 20/7/21 Start from 'Bob the Sheep' Traverse right across the foot ledge and
follow the crack to the top with increasing difficulty.
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Length: 18m Hugh Mc Cann and TF 20/07/21 Just to the right of the Heat Wave Arch. The first of Two corners
( Pam thinks 'Cleaning the Crack' would be more relevant to the
occasion!!) Climb the small left hand corner and finish over the left
side of the overlap
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Length: 18m TF and H M 20/7/21 Climb the big corner and finish over the right side of the overlap,
Access from the col between the arches
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Length: 16m Tim Fogg , Carroll O'Dolan 15/8/20 Stance with gear in the wheezing crack. Climb the corner.
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Length: 16m Tim Fogg , Carroll O'Dolan 15/8/20 Climb easily up to the head wall. Steep moves to finish.
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