Crag Number: 198
Malin Head (Magdalen Walls) |
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Directions: Magdalen Walls This is the area east of the 'Malin Laundry' and just west of Hell's Hole. Best to park at the lower car park at Bamba's Crown and take the coastal path west for about 10 minutes. Just beyond Hell's hole (a deep inlet) scramble down the rocks to the cliff top and abseil, or descend carefully further to the west, taking care particularly on the big tidal platform, which is usually slippery. After a high tide the bottom of the routes can also be wet. The two walls are divided by a deep chimney/off width. OS Grid Reference: 3895 5950 |
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Length: 20m Alan Tees, Bill Magowan 28/02/13 At the LHS of the higher eastern wall, climb a rightward trending ramp, past a niche, and continue up a crack (great climbing) to the Top.
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Length: 10m Geoff Thomas, Alan Tees. October 2018 Get on the wall about 3m left of the base of
Carbolic Crack, and left of some white quartzite. A small, but good,
cam can be placed just under an overlap. A couple of thin and stretchy moves (crux) lead to a good hold, and above it is steep, but much easier, with good holds and
decent protection to the top.
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Length: 20m Alan Tees, Bill Magowan 26/02/13 This is the obvious deep right to left crackline towardsthe RHS of the wall. About half way up, move right to gain a nice right angled corner, which is climbed to the top. There is also a more direct finish to the left by the quartzite, which is probably not as good.
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HS 4bLength: 15m Marty McGuigan, Alan Tees 28/09/13 Climb Carbolic, but continue straight up the obvious line of weakness. The crux is the bulge above the top of the crack.
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Length: 15m G. Carleton, I. Krella & L. Ross Climb up the middle of the face between Carbolic Crack and Bridget,
the crux is the steep section above the ledge at the top.
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Length: 25m Alan Tees, Bill Magowan, 5/03/13 Takes the big chimney/off width, just right of 'Carbolic Crack'. Bridget, chimney or whatever, to where it turns into a gully, divert right up an obvious diagonal line of weakness (may be wet where seepage crosses) on slanting, flat, and less than positive holds, to a corner, and the top. In wet weather it might be advisable to go into the gully and climb the right hand wall to the top.
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S 4aLength: 15m Alan Tees, Bill Magowan, 26/02/13 This takes a route up the centre of the western face from a slightly more elevated platform. Ascend on the left, and traverse rightwards along a ledge (good handholds) to the centre of the face. Go more or less straight up on good holds , but sparse protection.
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Length: 15m Alan Tees This nice scramble takes the angled corner/crackline which bounds the right hand side of the wall. Not even Diff, but worthy of note anyway!
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Length: 15m Alan Tees, Bill Magowan, May 2013 Climb 'Immaculata' to about one third height, traverse left for a metre on narrow ledge, and continue directly up line of weakness. Nice, but pretty unprotected near the top.
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| Add route description here...The next two routes are on the far side
of the deep inlet known as Hell's Hole, just to the east of
Housemaid's Knee |
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VD Length: 20m Alan Tees, Martin McGuigan 28/09/13 Just across Hell's Hole from Housemaid's Knee. At low tide on the calmest day of the year you might be able to ab in to a small ledge on the seaward side of a big wave washed platform on the east side of Hell's Hole. Belay on the ab rope and/or one small cam.A rightward rising traverse on smoothish rock with just enough protection, but no real difficulties in a dramatic situation, leads to the top.
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Length: 20m Marty McGuigan 28/09/13 Solo Descend the end of the eastern side of Hell's Hole to a platform, and traverse back into the hole just above sea level (delicate) to reach an obvious corner. Climb it.
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| Add route description here... The next routes are on the steep wall at
the end of the promentary to the west. Scramble down or abseil. |
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Washboard Wall, Malin - A, Holier than Thou, E1 5a, B, Washboard Wall, VS 4a, C, Poor Claire in the corner, V.Diff. |
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VS 4aLength: 22m Alan Tees, Bill Magowan 21/08/13 West of the other routes, is a zawn with big cliffs on the north side. At the end of these is a narrow steep clean wall, with a big flat platform below. Approach along the arête Gr 38953 59455, and either abb or scramble down on the north side. Washboard wall starts up the centre to a big jug, and traverse right to the edge, which is followed to the top. The climbing is never difficult, but protection, whilst adequate, is hard to find, and, early on, has to be placed under pressure.
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E1 5aLength: 22m Alan Tees, Bill Magowan, 21/08/13 This takes the left hand edge of Washboard Wall. The middle bit is very thin on handholds and protection, and required some unethical and ungainly antics. However let he who is without sin cast the first stone, as they say!I'll do it better next time!
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Length: 22m Des O'Connor and Alfie Conn. June 2014 Start at the back of the corner and ascend until you can step left on a good hand hold. Continue easily left and up the broken wall above.
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VD -Length: 22m Bill Magowan, Alan Tees, June 13 Start at the back of the recess on the north side of Washboard Wall, behind a rock pool. Ascend on sound rock (maybe wet), to the final wall which can be climbed direct (upping the grade) or on the right.
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S 4aLength: 12m Brian Johnston, Alan Tees, Geoff Thomas 4/07/2018
About 20 m west of Washboard Wall is an inlet
with a slab at the back, ‘the Washtub.’ Descent is by abseil. This takes the wide crack bounding the slab on the
west side. The are holds either side and a parallel crack for
protection.
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Length: 15m Alan Tees, Brian Johnston, Geoff Thomas 4/07/18 The east crack leads easily up to a big
overlap. Under this is a smooth powdery slab, with no holds or
friction whatsoever. Traverse delicately right below this (small cam) to the middle of the wall, and climb softly on small rugosities (lest they break aff and ye fall in
the sea) to meet the edge of the overlap. Continue easily up the crack to the top.
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