Name: Midsummer trip
Start: 2024-06-28T00:00:00+00:00
End: 2024-06-30T23:59:59+00:00

Crag Number: 22

Culdaff - Galavoir Point
Glengad Wall - A) Grimer in Zion, E1 5b. B) Geographer Paul, E2 5c C) Colhoun's Route, E3 5c D) Salty Dog, Sev.4a E) Good Ship Venus, VS4c F) Black Toe, MS.
Directions: Around 15 Minutes along the coast west of Brasil rock, at Galavoir Point, are Jura Wall, a short inland escarpment, Glengad Wall, a steep north facing wall, (accessible by a short gully) and Wavecrest Rocks ,an even shorter outcrop of grippy fierce rock below, and just east of, Glengad Wall. There is a shorter access route for those in the know, but it is complicated! OS Grid Reference: C536519 Click here to view location in Google Maps

Climbs on Jura Wall, the inland crag above and East of Glengad Wall.

1 - Columba's Corner S 4a Length: 14m A Tees, C Mclaughlin. Aug 2000 At the left-hand end of the crag is a prominent right facing corner. Start below and to its left, move up, step right, and climb the corner.
2 - Jura Malt VD Length: 15m Alan Tees, Andrew Tees Aug 2000 Right of 'Columba's Corner' is a a steep wall with a `stepped' arete on its right, this is gained via a crack on the right.

Immediately right is a broken recess before the rock becomes sound again. Approx 10M right of 'Jura Malt', and right of the recessed gully, is a butress; 'Jura-Hex' lies to its left-hand side.

3 - Jura-Hex HS 4b Length: 15m Andrew Tees, Alan Tees, (Aug 2000) One metre left of Jura-Bility climb a cracked 'diedre', step up left to small ledge and continue up wall above. From here step left around the corner and climb the v-groove, with crack, to the top.
4 - Jura-Bility S 4a Length: 15m A Tees, M Pailing Aug 2000 The quartzite vein, 1M right of 'Jura-Hex'. Climb to the ledge and continue up a line of weakness to vegetated ledge, tricky move at the top. Finish as for 'Jura-Hex'.
5 - Jura Jaunt S 4a Length: 15m A Tees, M Pailing Aug 2000 Approx. 3M right of 'Jurability' is a short face topped with an open v-corner. The top of the corner leads to a vegetated ledge, dynamic climbing up the short headwall gains the top.
6 - Ledge VD Length: 15m C McLaughlin, S Cooke(28/8/00) About 1M right of 'Jura Jaunt' is a right-facing corner, climb this to a ledge on the left and finish up either of the cracks in the wall above.
7 - Cracker S 4a Length: 15m C McLaughlin, S Cooke (28/8/00) On the right-hand side of the crag is an obvious arete. Climb this directly to the top of the pinnacle. Climb the twin cracks, treating the three jammed blocks on the left-hand side with suspicion.
8 - Two Days to Go VD - Length: 14m C. McLaughlin N. McLaughlin Just left of "Wee Butt" there is an awkward crack. Climb this to the small ledge below the main block. Finish up the right hand arete as for'Wee Butt'.
9 - Wee Butt D Length: 14m C Mclaughlin, N McLaughlin (2/9/00) Climb the centre of the small buttress, approx. 10M right of 'Cracker', to a small ledge below the square cut face. Move right and climb the arete to finish.

Glengad Wall. The crag situated in the middle of the Galavoir area, at the water's edge. Descent gully on West.

10 - Nancy Clancy the Fancy Dancer E2 6a Length: 20m N. Grimes G. Colhoun Takes the obvious overhung left trending on the right side of the cave, left of `Grimer in Zion'.
26 - The Scatophage E2 5b Length: 20m Greg Morrow & Paul Dunlop. 08/21 Climbs the shallow corner to the small overlaps right of Nancy Clancy the Fancy Dancer. When the overlaps are reached traverse rightwards on to the main face and climb this direct to the top via small ledges.
11 - Grimer in Zion * E1 5b Length: 20m A Millar, G Colhoun (1997) Start on left-hand side of main face, in a short corner that ends in an overhang at 5m (5m right of cave). Climb corner and move right to good footholds on arete. Move finely up wall (crux) until holds improve at black stain. Straight up the final wall above via footledge.
12 - Geographer Paul * E2 5c Length: 20m A Millar F McCloskey R Dunlop (1997 4m right of'Grimer in Zion' climb steeply over overhang on good holds to stance above. Move up via lay-away trending left as the wall bulges slightly to the right end of footledge in 'Grimer in Zion'. Move right up fine wall to the top. Better protected than it appears.
13 - Colhoun's Route * * E3 5c Length: 20m A Millar, R Moore (28/4/2000) Climb the overhangs as for Geographer Paul. Traverse right using good footholds till underneath the right hand of the two holes in the face. Move up past this to huge hole at overhang. (Step right for rest if you like). Then layback over hang on left side to thin stance above. Continue with sustained thin moves up headwall to the top.
14 - Salty Dog * * S 4a Length: 18m A Tees, V Russell (8/9l92) A line of weakness forms a right-facing corner in the final 1/3rd of the face. Climb the overhangs that form the corner, then follow the crack until you can step left onto the ramp. Very good climbing indeed.
15 - Good Ship Venus * * VS 4c Length: 20m P Nelis, K Gallagher (3/4/96) At the wall's right-hand end, about 4m right of Salty Dog, climb a short overhang to the clean-cut right-facing corner corner. Move up and left out of this before traversing rightwards to the arete. Go round for the endwall's left arete for thin steep climbing and poor protection to the top.

Wave Crest Rocks, situated at the water's edge immediately to the West of Glengad Wall. Access via scramble or abseil.
A True Grit B V. Crack C Raw Hand D Room to Roam E Clawhammer F Catherine D.
16 - BIack Toe S 3c Length: 15m P Smith, K Gallagher Right of the end wall is a lesser wall. This route makes its way up the arete to gain the slab above.
17 - El Paso HVS 5a Length: 8m D.Millar & P.Cooper June 12th 2004 Approx. 4m to the left of 'True Grit'. Climb the lower wall via a bouldery-move to gain the rightward trending top groove, a good 0.5 friend placement, continue up this to good finishing holds.
18 - Truegrit * HVS 5a Length: 10m P Dunlop, K Gallagher (2/6/93) 2-3 metres left of 'Wavecrack' climb into a corner before moving up and right to layback-up the huge flake to the right. The initial poor start is more than made up for!
19 - Wavecrack E5 6a Length: 10m P.Dunlop (2/06/93) Just left of the "Elephants Ear" climb the crack up the wall.
20 - V-Crack VS 4b Length: 8m P.Cooper & B.Wingham 05/08/04 The V-crack right of wavecrack and left of raw hand
21 - Raw Hand VS 4c Length: 8m A Tees, K Gallagher (2/6/93) The most obvious feature is an 'Elephants Ear' protrusion about half way along with large boulders below. Climb the recess/boulders and awkward crack above, just right of the Elephant's ear.
22 - Room to Roam * E1 5b Length: 8m P.Cooper & P.Smith 02/08/03 Between 'Rawhand' and 'Clawhammer' is a small cave. Climb out of cave to foot of the steep right-to-left rising diagonal crack, climb this. Fingerjams and bridging will assist progress.
23 - Clawhammer * VS 4b Length: 8m A Tees, Andrew Tees (2/6/93) 2-3m right, climb steep cracks to a'V', layback up the right fork to the top. Excellent.
24 - Catherine D HS 4a Length: 8m P Dunlop, C Desmond (2/6/93) Right of `Clawhammer' is a large overhang. Just to the right of this, climb up easily to reach a wall. Move up and left to finish.
25 - Catherine D's Right Hand HS 4b Length: 8m P.Cooper & P.Smith 02/08/03 Follow Catherine D through nice move to reach break, gear, then traverse right out to below right hand arete; gain height via arete and finish on the face with a mantle.