Crag Number: 25
Tory Island |
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Tory Island |
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Directions: Take the Turasmara boat from Magheraoarty or Bunbeg to West Town. Crags are North & slightly West of Village, around the most Westerly longest zawn. There are higher and more spectacular cliffs east, but rock quality is perhaps not so good. OS Grid Reference: B852472 Click here to view location in Google Maps |
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Length: 15m Alan Tees, Frank Corr 10/06/2017 Add route description here...In Long Zawn, west side opposite 'Long
Zawn Sliver' is a grooved slab with a right angled corner on its
south end. Ab down the slab and traverse beyond the corner to a
short chimney, which is climbed nicely but easily. Up the slab above
until forced left by an overhang onto a ridge. The excellent rock
deteriorates at this point, so yake car not to drop anything on your
belayer.
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50 metres West of Long Zawn, are 2 short inlets separated by a promontory which narrows into an arete. The West side of the first inlet is a big clean eroded slab, abseil from the cleaned block to the huge sea level central recess. The following 5 routes start in this huge recess. Rock/gear and climbing is excellent. |
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Length: 15m Frank Corr, Alan Tees 10/06/2017 Add route description here...On the grooved slab almost opposite
'Long Zawn Sliver'. Ab down to a decent ledge. There are many
possible variations here, but this one starts towards the South end of
the slab. A steep but straightforward start leads to a succession of
thin moves above, and near the centre of the slab. Delicate.
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HS 4bLength: 30m W. Schuessler, I. Miller 28/07/11 From the central recess at sea level make a rising leftward traverse to the centre of the slab on your left, continue direct up the slab.
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VD Length: 30m W. Schuessler, C. Gleeson 28/07/11 From the central recess climb the full crag height hand crack up the left of the recess.
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Length: 27m I. Miller, C. Gleeson 28/07/11 From the recess climb the left wall directly above. A tad necky! :-)
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VD Length: 28m I. Miller, C. Gleeson 28/07/11 Climb the right ward trending hand crack from the huge sea level recess, finish direct.
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Length: 25m Alan Tees, Nigel Miller and Margaret Quinn 28/06/24 On Failte Slab, start at the base of Mille Failte, and do a right- to-
left rising Traverse to gain a ledge at two thirds height. Continue
left along the ledge to a right facing shallow corner. Climb it to the
top.
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S 4aLength: 20m Bill Magowan, Alan Tees, June 04 The sea facing wall. Abseil from the top of arete above Mille Failte to a small ledge at sea level. Excellent for its grade and worthy of at least one star.
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