Crag Number: 39
Crummies Bay (Port Na Sionnach) |
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Port na Sionnach - A. Two Thran Glypes, V.Diff, 50m B.Twisted Speech, HS 4a, 50m C.Rowdy Rascals, Sev, 50m D.Crummies Crumble, V.Diff, 50m E. Birthday Blues, Sev. 50m F.Picos Prelude, V.Diff. 50m G. For Forsythe, V.Diff, 50m H. Gang of Four* HS, 50m I.Dylysgyl Daydream, V.Diff, 50m J. Columba's Hitman/ Hitman Direct, VS 4b/c, 20m K White Riot, VS 4b, 20m (The arete) L. Groovy Grandad, Sev, 20m (Crack) M. Tooth Fairy, HS, 20m (pinnacle) N. Strawman, VS 4b, 20m (Thin Crack) O. Alpine, VS 4b, 18m (The Arete) P. Vulpine*, HS, 18m (the diedre) |
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Directions: An unusual crag of orange coloured rock, on the northern side of a small inlet immediately north of Crummies Bay. The rock tends to be loose, especially towards the top. As there are now 'Private' signs on the previous access route to this crag, it is advisable to leave your vehicle at the main car park for the beach and approach via the strand, crossing the shallow river estuary and gain the coast. Walk north along the shore and at the first bay move inland to arrive at the southern side of a steep boulder filled inlet. The routes are on the right hand side of the bay. OS Grid Reference: C288402 Click here to view location in Google Maps |
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VD -Length: 60m Alan Tees, Trevor Hartley 17/11/13 At very low tide, traverse out along boulders to the obvious slab beyond existing routes. Climb the slab from its lowest point, using right and then left trending cracks to gain arête. Belay, then scramble up the arête using the rocky edge.
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Length: 50m I Rea, M Rea (7/5/95) Left of Rowdy Rascals is a wide diagonal crack which leads to a small overhang. Climb the thin, fluted face cracks just right of this and go up the extreme left hand edge, with an airy finish just left of a loose block.
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Length: 50m B Patton, B McDermott (6/81) About 10m left of Crummie's Crumble. Move up off some boulders onto slanting ledge, and continue up along the left-hand edge of the ramp mentioned in Crummie's Crumble.
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Length: 50m B McDermott, B Patton (6/81) This takes the right-hand corner of the obvious ramp at the lower, or left end of the crag, starting from a massive boulder at its base.
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S Length: 50m B McDermott, B Patton (6/81) Right of Crummie's Crumble is a large grey slab. This route goes up the left-hand edge of it. Variations possible.
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Severe -Length: 55m B McDermott, B Patton (6/81) Takes a parallel line about 4m right of Birthday Blues. Up a couple of left facing corners and eroded grey flakey rock above.
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Length: 50m B Patton, B McDermott (6/81) Takes a parallel line towards the right-hand side of the Grey Slab. Variations possible.
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HS 4bLength: 50m B McDermott, 8 Patton (6/81)
Just right of the Grey Slab is the Red Slab. This
route goes straight up the left centre of it. Variations
possible.
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Length: 50m B McDermott, B Patton (6/81) Start at the right-hand end of Red Slab, move up leftwards, and continue right of centre to the top.
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Length: 20m B McDermott, R Smith, B Patton (6/81) Just right of the cave is a wide crack, very steep at
first but easing above. Climb it until it turns
horizontal, traverse left and climb directly up.
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VS 4bLength: 20m P Grant, B McDermott, G Colhoun (6/81) As for Columba's Hitman Direct, only traverse right and climb the edge.
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Length: 25m I Rea, M Rea (07/5/95) Climbs the arete of the Columba routes, starting just
right of the toe of the edge, moving left onto the
arete and following this directly up to the top.
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S 4aLength: 20m M Patton, R Smith, (6/81) 4m right of Columba's Hitman, around the corner, is
a wide crack which is climbed past a large flake to a
corner. The wall above is climbed on small holds.
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Length: 20m A Tees, K Gallagher (7/4/94) Right of'Groovy Grandad' is a detached pinnacle or
flake. Climb to the top of it and step onto the face.
Continue up a crack to the top.
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VS 4bLength: 20m I. Rea, M Rea (07/5/95) Climb the wall, at the thin crack just left of Vulpine
until level with the second small overhang on the
right edge. Go onto edge of Alpine and finish.
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S 4aLength: 18m A Tees, K Gallagher (4/11/93) (replaces `Victory V')' Take the'V' shaped diedre up the centre of the
arete. Good route.
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