Name: March Meet at Castle Gully Poisoned Glen
Start: 2025-03-02T08:00:00+00:00
End: 2025-03-02T16:00:00+00:00

Crag Number: 39

Crummies Bay (Port Na Sionnach)
Port na Sionnach - A. Two Thran Glypes, V.Diff, 50m B.Twisted Speech, HS 4a, 50m C.Rowdy Rascals, Sev, 50m D.Crummies Crumble, V.Diff, 50m E. Birthday Blues, Sev. 50m F.Picos Prelude, V.Diff. 50m G. For Forsythe, V.Diff, 50m H. Gang of Four* HS, 50m I.Dylysgyl Daydream, V.Diff, 50m J. Columba's Hitman/ Hitman Direct, VS 4b/c, 20m K White Riot, VS 4b, 20m (The arete) L. Groovy Grandad, Sev, 20m (Crack) M. Tooth Fairy, HS, 20m (pinnacle) N. Strawman, VS 4b, 20m (Thin Crack) O. Alpine, VS 4b, 18m (The Arete) P. Vulpine*, HS, 18m (the diedre)
Directions: An unusual crag of orange coloured rock, on the northern side of a small inlet immediately north of Crummies Bay. The rock tends to be loose, especially towards the top. As there are now 'Private' signs on the previous access route to this crag, it is advisable to leave your vehicle at the main car park for the beach and approach via the strand, crossing the shallow river estuary and gain the coast. Walk north along the shore and at the first bay move inland to arrive at the southern side of a steep boulder filled inlet. The routes are on the right hand side of the bay. OS Grid Reference: C288402 Click here to view location in Google Maps
00 - Two Thran Glypes VD - Length: 60m Alan Tees, Trevor Hartley 17/11/13 At very low tide, traverse out along boulders to the obvious slab beyond existing routes. Climb the slab from its lowest point, using right and then left trending cracks to gain arête. Belay, then scramble up the arête using the rocky edge.
01 - Twisted Speech HS 4a Length: 50m I Rea, M Rea (7/5/95) Left of Rowdy Rascals is a wide diagonal crack which leads to a small overhang. Climb the thin, fluted face cracks just right of this and go up the extreme left hand edge, with an airy finish just left of a loose block.
02 - Rowdy Rascals S - Length: 50m B Patton, B McDermott (6/81) About 10m left of Crummie's Crumble. Move up off some boulders onto slanting ledge, and continue up along the left-hand edge of the ramp mentioned in Crummie's Crumble.
03 - Crummie's Crumble VD - Length: 50m B McDermott, B Patton (6/81) This takes the right-hand corner of the obvious ramp at the lower, or left end of the crag, starting from a massive boulder at its base.
04 - Birthday Blues * S Length: 50m B McDermott, B Patton (6/81) Right of Crummie's Crumble is a large grey slab. This route goes up the left-hand edge of it. Variations possible.
05 - Picos Prelude * Severe - Length: 55m B McDermott, B Patton (6/81) Takes a parallel line about 4m right of Birthday Blues. Up a couple of left facing corners and eroded grey flakey rock above.
06 - For Forsythe VD - Length: 50m B Patton, B McDermott (6/81) Takes a parallel line towards the right-hand side of the Grey Slab. Variations possible.
07 - Gang O'Four * HS 4b Length: 50m B McDermott, 8 Patton (6/81) Just right of the Grey Slab is the Red Slab. This route goes straight up the left centre of it. Variations possible.
08 - Dylysgyl Daydream VD Length: 50m B McDermott, B Patton (6/81) Start at the right-hand end of Red Slab, move up leftwards, and continue right of centre to the top.
09 - Columba's Hitman Direct VS 4b Length: 20m B McDermott, R Smith, B Patton (6/81) Just right of the cave is a wide crack, very steep at first but easing above. Climb it until it turns horizontal, traverse left and climb directly up.
10 - Columba's Hitman * VS 4b Length: 20m P Grant, B McDermott, G Colhoun (6/81) As for Columba's Hitman Direct, only traverse right and climb the edge.
11 - White Riot VS 4b Length: 25m I Rea, M Rea (07/5/95) Climbs the arete of the Columba routes, starting just right of the toe of the edge, moving left onto the arete and following this directly up to the top.
12 - Groovy Grandad S 4a Length: 20m M Patton, R Smith, (6/81) 4m right of Columba's Hitman, around the corner, is a wide crack which is climbed past a large flake to a corner. The wall above is climbed on small holds.
13 - Tooth Fairy HS 4b Length: 20m A Tees, K Gallagher (7/4/94) Right of'Groovy Grandad' is a detached pinnacle or flake. Climb to the top of it and step onto the face. Continue up a crack to the top.
14 - Strawman VS 4b Length: 20m I. Rea, M Rea (07/5/95) Climb the wall, at the thin crack just left of Vulpine until level with the second small overhang on the right edge. Go onto edge of Alpine and finish.
15 - Vulpine S 4a Length: 18m A Tees, K Gallagher (4/11/93) (replaces `Victory V')' Take the'V' shaped diedre up the centre of the arete. Good route.
16 - Alpine VS 4b Length: 18m A.Tees, K.Gallagher 4/11/93 Climb the ledge to the left of "Vulpine".
17 - Sweet Mother of Jesus get me out of here S 6c Length: 55m Sean Convery, Alan Tees 19th June 2024 The next bay east of Port Na Sionnach. Descend by a stream, and climb the obvious ramp. The climbing is about 30m, the rest is about survival