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Fairhead Bouldering

Date: 13 March 2005
Submitted by: rodders
Julie and myself took a wee trip up to fairhead to try some of the bouldering at the murlough bay area. Must say I was very impressed and would thoroughly recommend it, quality highball problems in a beautiful setting ranging from font 5a- 7b+ and more scope for development. The only draw back is the bad landings, so bring plenty of mats and spotters! the topo can be found on

Managed a Flashed ascent of "Brought to you by the letter M", a classic Font 5c problem which takes the front face of a big boulder on crimpy but good edges. This is a must do and well worth the trip alone.

Had a few goes at the 6c extension called "Moon man direct", but didn't quite manage it. One to work on though.

Again had a few bashes at "chubbs patterson" a tough short font 7a but couldn't link the whole thing despite doing all the moves.

Whilst there I bumped into Ricky Bell, Ed Barbour and a bunch of belfast strong boys who showed me how it was done. Ed managed the second ascent of "Homeward Bound",put up by visiting sheffield E10 climber James Pearson, which at 7b+ is the hardest problem yet at fairhead.

Inspired by this awesome display of power, I had a few bashes at the stand up 6c version "eat it left" which I thought I was going to flash in front of the watching belfast climbing "celebraties", until I was thwarted repeatedly by a reachy last move! (which involves a full dino for a crimp off a non existant foothold if you're a shorty like myself!) a soft touch at the grade for anyone over 5 ft 8 id say. aw well another one to work on!

Photo of Route