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Little by Little: Malin Head Developments

Date: 27th and 29th May 2006
Submitted by: Peter Cooper, Dave Millar

Unable to make Malinbeg Dave Millar and self got out to the 1st Zawn west of Sea Area Malin. Dave got in a lovely new E2 corner line, yet to be named. I managed a clean a line (climbed with geoff on Monday) before the rain got us.

The Bank Holiday Monday saw Geoff visiting this area again, I'm thinking he likes it after at least 4 trips now. Geoff left all the hanging-onto-the-crag-in-a-Force5 to me. A new route 'Inishowen'(VS) now takes the full length of the large face by the descent gully, left of Alan and Bill's 'Sillygan Suzy'. There was a very hearty breeze ripping across the face and this sent toes numb within moments and the main problem was not getting blown off (add your'e own pun!). Below the terrace and to the right of the 'Swedish Slab' there are 2 new routes on what is now called the 'Slabby Face'. Firstly 'Crease Climb' was led (VS) and then a fearless, or foolish, on-sight lead of what looked to be a thinish-VS crack was done. This turned out to be technically about 5a but with gear running out below 1/2 way can only be recommended with caution. This line is 'Optimists Crack' (E1).

Photo of Route