|Date: 1st Weekend April
Submitted by: Peter Cooper
Dave Millar, Valli and self met up on Saturday at Holyhead and had ourselves some glorious weather and routes on Holyhead Mountain. I'd climbed there once in a freezing winter, when the sea was too rough for Gogarth's cliffs, nudging 19 years ago. So it was good to make such a quick return.
Dave led 'Black & Tan' VS 4c, which had a real good crux for the grade. I bravely decided to go for a lead of 'Bruvers' a stunning looking line and only HVS 5a. Two rests on the rope later I finally made it to the top, my forearms were pumped-up until the Monday! Dave then led another stiff HVS 5a 'King Bee Crack', there don't seem to be any easy-peasy HVS at this crag.
After that it was off to our lodgings at Pete's Eats, Llanberis-Snowdonia, via a sea-kajak test for potential purchaser Valli. a slight hiccup in our booking meant I got the floor F.O.C. and we all got breakfast thrown in. Hoorah!
Sunday we were fast out of the traps up to the Bus Stop quarry for some slate adventure, Dave led 'Fools gold E1 5c; I painfully 2nd' in my new climb shoes which are almost too painful to wear (some bargain, grumble). A trip to 'Dali's Hole' followed and several sports routes were quickly despatched. Then I thought I'd try 'Launching pad' E1 5b. Which was interesting, polished slate slopers for footholds; climbing in my old shoes with cardboard popping out the toe on one and a flopping loose sole on the other for added excitement.
For a finale we headed up The Pass to Carreg Wastad where as a team of 3 we despatched the fine lines of 'Skylon' HS4b and 'Crackstone Rib' S 4a. The latter climb had a beautiful pull-round move onto an exposed arete which had us all gasping in awe - them old bold boys were some boys.
08 Apr 2009
Ah that old pull-round on to the arete - Bill and I remember it well, the exposure is terrific and it took me ages to lead then Bill made me do the next pitch for good measure! What a route.
30 Apr 2009
Since this trip and submitting this article I've noted that 'Bruvers' is about 4th from the top of the graded list's HVS'. Once you consider some of the 3 star N.Wales HVS' it comes ahead of I was lucky I didn't take more rests on the rope.