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Date: 17th Oct 2009
Submitted by: George Carleton

On Saturday 17th October I joined up with Sandra K to do a bit of late season climbing at Malinbeg. Getting there early we were on the rock before eleven. First up was Hydrophobia, a good confidence builder, then Rabid Puffin HS, which has a committing move when climbing onto the corner from the ledge.

Next up was Sandra’s lead, Trident / Ancient Mariner; the initial move gave pause for thought, but was overcome by a combination of bridging, mantling with the left hand while crimping a good ledge on the right hand wall.

The confidence was building so off we went to the main west wall for some of Malinbeg’s 3 star classics. First up was Flying Enterprise VS 4c, quickly followed by Fiddlers Green HVS 5a. The tide was just low enough for us to traverse along the bottom of the cliff to The Wrack of the Mary Deere HVS 5a a brilliant climb, challenging and sustained, a real contender for one of Donegal’s best HVS’s.

The tide was now coming in which scuppered our plans to return to the North End which now had waves covering the lower sections of the climbs. We settled on La Cois Farraige VS 5a which was in the shelter of the Island; hard for the grade and the gear was ok but not brilliant. By now we here both feeling the strain and decided to call an end to a great days climbing.

20 Oct 2009

Well done you two. Glad you liked Rabid Puffin.

Photo of Route