The Devil Rides Out
|Date: 28th Sept 2013
Submitted by: Alan Tees
Denis Wheatley Tees and Duc de Richlieu- McGuigan had more tenacity and success at Malin, than the Alfie Conan Doyle debacle at Strabane Glen described elsewhere.
Taking advantage of the exceptionally calm conditions at Malin they abbed into Hell's Hole to a small ledge at water level. They climbed back out by a rightwards rising traverse, a veritable stairway to heaven, a V Diff in a most spectacular location, called " The Devil Rides Out". De Richlieu then led a new finish to Carbolic Crack, "Carbolic Direct" HS, before the pair made their way around to "Razorbill", where Wheatley led the first ascent of the route from the bottom ( the previous De Richlieu ascent was from a hanging belay above the snapping jaws of neptune- pure Miller that!). This *** classic was plodded up in very non classical style by Wheatley ( it's called winning ugly). On blaming his sore toe and ill fitting rock boots for the performance, De Richlieu quipped " Hear the excuses" to which Wheatley replied, "excuses! I haven't started yet, - residual psycological trauma from last week's toothache, worry about the situation in Syria, old age, decrepitude, lack of practise, soggy chalk bag, too much wine last night, etc etc. Wheatley was still in full flow as De Richlieu started up the last route of the day, a new VS out of the opposite side of Conn's Sheugh, just a bit up from the start of Razorbill. A bit fierce, but with good holds and gear," 4c" said Wheatley," 4b" said De Richlieu, (perhaps surprising, as Wheatley chose the easier finish on the left). Try it and see, its a nice route called Pelican.
30 Sep 2013
Now I see where the route name comes from. Trevor and I started from the East side of Hell's dawn and called the traverse 'Tinitus' as it was too windy for us to hear each other. Atmospheric though. Devil Rides Out is a good name.
07 Oct 2013
Great report lads and 'The Devil Rides Out' - what a Name for a rock climb in 'Hell's Hole'.