Route Number: 195

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Alhambra *

Location: Culdaff - Dunowen (Brazil Rock)
Grade: VD  
Length: 18m
First ascent: A.Tees,K.Gallagher, V.Russell 8/09/92
Route Description:
The start is at the base of a crack system about 2 metres to the right of the arete. Climb up steeply for 2m and traverse left to the base of the edge, which is climbed, passing the overhang on the left; an exposed step regains the main pillar.

Comments

alantees - 17/08/2020
Cleaned a new start to this route during lockdown, which separates it completely from Bunratti ( discovering a possible megalithic Dolmen in the process). Did it today with George Beaumont in the rain. The new variant goes around to the left, up onto the Dolmen, and is more in keeping with the grade of the rest of the route, I think. ** at least this route, (probably *** as the only better route of the grade in Donegal is Cutting Edge/Line.

Peter Cooper - 10/09/2010
I think it's good that the Guards are now dealing with folks that spoil it for everyone else. I think we can be pretty certain they weren't climbers (we're thick but not that thick). The land owner for the camping area has always accommodated those attending the Climbfest.

Alan - 09/09/2010
Am negotiating camping rights for MI members, and talking to the landowner of the fenced off area. Looking promising for Culdaff Climbfest 2010. The guys who the Garda were called for, had done a lot of damage, and were refusing to move. I hear they were finally arrested and charged.

Rodders - 05/09/2010
Julie and myself were there a few weeks ago the guards agressively moved a couple of lads camping from bunagee. Not sure if they were climbers. They didn't say anything to us but we left anyway as we didn't want to aggrevate the situation.

jock - 31/08/2010
I don’t know if guards were actually called or if those fellas were just bullsh!tting us. Suffice to say they put us off the idea so we headed elsewhere and are not planning a return trip any time soon.

Peter Cooper - 31/08/2010
The situation at Dunowen/Bunagee shouldn't really be affecting climbers and walkers at all, quite astonished to hear the Guards got involved at all. The problems here have been caused by folks camping and making a mess of the place, abusing local folks and the land owner. It will need resolving, as other local folk accessing for fishing and having a walk are pretty p'd off with having access denied; its come to near fisty-cuffs recently. Alan or myself will post an update as soon as there is one. In the meantime keep a low profile, use your map to gain alternative access - the shore is not owned.

jock - 30/08/2010
Exactly, we were really disapointed and are now wondering if Culdaff is worth the hassle for future weekends. In the end we didn’t do any climbing or spend any money around Culdaff. It'd def be worth noting these access issues in the new guidebook and removing the campsite marked on the Dunowen topo. The local lads we were talking to at the harbor told us that the guards moved a squad of climbers on from Dunown last Sunday. They reckoned we'd have to ask the guards for permission before we climbed there! Perhaps a well publicized shore line clean up day or a bring the climbfest back might help in terms of PR with the locals?

Pete Smith - 30/08/2010
Alan Tees is the man on the spot. Last time I went to Brazil Rock (2-3 months ago) it was very difficult to get there without wire cutters and a machete. Is this what the future of Irish climbing will be like?

jock - 30/08/2010
Anyone know what the access situation is for Brazil rock? We were up at the weekend and the style on the path from the old climb fest campsite is blocked with and a no trespassing sign has been put up. Looks like the camp site is off limits as is camping anywhere around the dunes in culdaff, no matter how well you think you are hidden.

Alan Tees - 08/05/2008
Why does no one add comments to the easier routes? No recognition for having climbed it perhaps?

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