Route Number: 2241

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The Cutting Edge * *

Location: Malin Head (The cauldron)
Grade: VD  -
Length: 140m
First ascent: Alfie Conn and Trevor Hartley (Alt Lead) 24/10/2010
Route Description:
Descend, next to the ridge, to sea level and the western toe of the ridge.
  1. 40m Scramble up the ridge to reach the large flakey belay on the 1st summit
  2. 10m Move over the grassy top to belay on a small rock outcrop that provides a good observation point on the left, slightly lower than the grassy knoll on the crest of the ridge.
  3. 40m The Dallas Pitch Go over the grassy knoll and descend a series of steps to belay in the col below. There is some loose rock at the top. This belay can be reached directly from the slopes below by a short scramble.
  4. 40m The Blade. A cracking pitch. The way is obvious! Up the crest of the ridge, (A cheval in places) to where the ridge steepens. Up the rock to below the notch in the final gendarme and step out onto the southern face. Step up and stand on the top and start to smile for a photo before belaying.
  5. 10m Descend easily and go up the slope to a good thread belay.

Photo of Route
The Cutting Edge - Malin Head
Comments

Geoff Thomas - 13/05/2019
A national treasure! Deserves 4 stars judging from the number of parties on it at Climbfest. The \'Voie Francaise\' avoids the Dallas pitch by abseiling down the chossy gully off the fixed [?] sling in the notch below Gendarme B [look it up!]. Needs a maillion here for safety.

alantees - 08/02/2019
3 stars if combined with Lizard line to the notch on the ridge.

Alfie Conn - 15/04/2013
Would award 2 stars

Bill - 09/10/2012
From Geoff: Early days in north of ireland. P Montagnard "In 1939 cove mtn was explored and an extensive area of malin head was made, an exposed knife edge ridge with two gendarmes being traversed." Original source jnl IMC vol 14, no2

D O'Connor & Shane Taggar - 29/04/2012
Great day - super sun and dry rock! Alpine style til the Blade - jez it was a bit airy over the Stelfox slab :) Loved it. The exposure a tad more that a normal VD

Alfie Conn - 25/03/2012
A bit presumptive to have claimed a first ascent of a route climbed in or before the 1930s. Those old timers cheated as they used ability and were well equipped with large cahones

Alan - 06/08/2011
Marty and I were looking at it today, looks great,and I dont know why it havent done it before, (too wet today!)

Peter Cooper - 03/11/2010
This has been done before, but you are the first to claim it. The Gendarme is particularly crumbly and belaying on it would be sensible. It is a worthwhile adventure. The ridge also gives a good view into the area known as Stelfox Slab.

- 02/11/2010
A. The Flakey Belay
B. The Grassy Knoll
C. The Blade
D. The Final Gendarme

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