Route Number: 34

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Formorian *

Location: Bingorm West (Lough Barra)
Grade: VS  4c
Length: 65m
First ascent: E Healey, F Winder (16/4/60) First ascent but different pitches 2 & 3
VS. 4b, 4b 3b This route starts at the foot of the obvious fault curving left half way between Surplomb Grise and the end of the cliff, directly above the left edge of the prominent overhung slab on the lower part of the face. It marks the right edge of the Main Face. There are three ways of approaching the fault, none of them entirely pleasant and most parties will want to rope up for them:
  • a) Follow a series of heather ledges from the gully that lies about 60m to the right.
  • b) 45m From the left edge of the overhung slab move right to gain a rib slanting left. Follow this to a heather terrace and up mixed ground to the base of the fault. Climb up corner for about 8m to an overhung niche and belay.
  • c) 10m Left and slightly above the start of (b) is a small wall that leads on to good slabs giving approx 25m of continuous rock before moving right on vegetated ledges to the base of the fault as (a).
  1. 23m From the belay there are two alternative pitches. The original route is described first with the easier Cripples Way after.
    • a) 4c Swing out right onto the upper face. Move up delicately on the edge, then right along a sloping ledge, and up on to a similar ledge above. Up on small quartz knobs to good holds and a grassy ledge.
    • b) 4b Continue up the fault corner for 12m, then climb diagonally right to join the original route before the quartz knobs.
  2. 21 m Traverse right along ledge for 4m, then climb diagonally left to weakness in overhang. Through this and up wall to grassy ledge on left.
  3. 21 m Easy climbing to the top.

Comments

ablair - 07/05/2017
Climbed this today,approached via \"Granite Gangway\" to give 4 very good clean, well protected climbing - recommended

Donna Ryan - 30/09/2002
Bold climbing with airy rising traverse

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