Editor: Sturrall Headland

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Crag Profile: Sturrall Headland

Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes

Directions: From Skelpoonagh bay follow untarred road North to Watchtower on Headland, Approx 1Km. Continue North for another 1 Km. The Sturrall Headland is the Awesome looking ridged peninsula!

OS Grid Reference: G524882

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1 - The Sturrall Ridge
XS 4c
Length: 750m
Iain Miller. Theresa Hughes, Aaron Entringer 17/03/12 (sea to summit) WP Hasket Smith 1890 (Summit to land)

**Please note, on a recent acsent of the Sturrall Ridge (from land to summit) climbers encountered a lot of dangerously loose rock, with one climber being injured when a large block came away. Climbing of this route is not recommended due to the amount of loose rock and the exposed situation of the climb. (2016-10-20)**

This route climbs the Sturrall ridge from sea to summit and continues along the ridge to the land. This route is a monster.

Access is by steep descent of the north spur of the Sturrall headland to sea level and a 300m paddle to the base of the ridge.

Pitch 1: 25m From the recess at the sea side tower climb the grooves above the abyss to a large grassy ledge.

Pitch 2: 48m Climb slabby rock and up airy ground as the ridge narrows. Steep belay on blocky ground.

Pitch 3: 20m Climb ridge to a flattening.

Pitch 4: 25m Crawl along the ridge with maximum exposure and terror. Big gear belay in wide crack at top of slab.

Pitch 5: 48m Climb steep ground to an excellent pull onto an immaculate slab above UBER big air. Climb slab to twin crack belay on a wee grassy ledge.

Pitch 6: 40m Continue up immaculate slab by finger cracks to a huge grassy recess.

Pitch 7: 50m Climb broken very exposed ground to monster block belay.

Pitch 8: 70m Scramble to Summit.

From the summit follow the ridge past several towers and maximum exposure for approx 350m of outstanding alpine ridge climbing back to land. (Hasket Smith 1890)

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2 - Peely Wally
XS 5a
Length: 110m
C. McDaid, I. Miller (alt lds) 25/05/08

Scramble down the North Face of Sturral Headland to the sea level slab, facing the wee collection of Stacks. Step down and around the corner south to belay in the recess at the base of the superb looking ramp.

Pitch 1. 30m, 3c. Climb the ramp following the Right Facing corner.
Pitch 2. 30m, 4c. Continue up ramp with increased interest, stepping across the void to belay on a wee grass topped block.
Pitch 3. 25m, 5a. Contine up ramp until forced to ascend 3mtr wall and continue up higher ramp. (bold)
Pitch 4. 20m, 4b Continue up ramp to summit

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