Route Number: 2569

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The Sturrall Ridge

Location: Sturrall Headland
Grade: XS 4c
Length: 750m

First ascent: Iain Miller. Theresa Hughes, Aaron Entringer 17/03/12 (sea to summit) WP Hasket Smith 1890 (Summit to land)

Route Description:

**Please note, on a recent acsent of the Sturrall Ridge (from land to summit) climbers encountered a lot of dangerously loose rock, with one climber being injured when a large block came away. Climbing of this route is not recommended due to the amount of loose rock and the exposed situation of the climb. (2016-10-20)**

This route climbs the Sturrall ridge from sea to summit and continues along the ridge to the land. This route is a monster.

Access is by steep descent of the north spur of the Sturrall headland to sea level and a 300m paddle to the base of the ridge.

Pitch 1: 25m From the recess at the sea side tower climb the grooves above the abyss to a large grassy ledge.

Pitch 2: 48m Climb slabby rock and up airy ground as the ridge narrows. Steep belay on blocky ground.

Pitch 3: 20m Climb ridge to a flattening.

Pitch 4: 25m Crawl along the ridge with maximum exposure and terror. Big gear belay in wide crack at top of slab.

Pitch 5: 48m Climb steep ground to an excellent pull onto an immaculate slab above UBER big air. Climb slab to twin crack belay on a wee grassy ledge.

Pitch 6: 40m Continue up immaculate slab by finger cracks to a huge grassy recess.

Pitch 7: 50m Climb broken very exposed ground to monster block belay.

Pitch 8: 70m Scramble to Summit.

From the summit follow the ridge past several towers and maximum exposure for approx 350m of outstanding alpine ridge climbing back to land. (Hasket Smith 1890)

Sturrall Ridge - The longest rock climb in Ireland?

Comments

IM - 22/05/2012
About 14 hrs car to car from Port. Choose sea state carefully as the base of the ridge is open to both SW & North motions, outlaying skerries make it a emotional. Search U-tube for "Sturrall Ridge," for a film of the ascent and the sea passage.

Frank Boase - 22/05/2012
A fantastic line, a great expedition. How many hours top to bottom, assuming two on the rope?

Peter Cooper - 15/04/2012
Thanks Iain,interesting to know he came over to climb in Donegal. So what else did he do, and was that with Fanad local Hart? Though Hart's quests were in pursuit of his botanical interests. Questions questions.

IM - 29/03/2012
WP in his book (online text version) says he "scrambled" to the summit of the Sturrall. I suspect he went around the side and made the summit up the last 70m from the sea ward side? Though he may have scrambled the ridge from the land to the summit as I have said above? Anyways it is a monster of a rock climb and is indeed super scary! :-)

Peter Cooper - 29/03/2012
One further note, perhaps Alan or Iain could confirm, I don't know if Walter Parry haskett Smith did this climb; as his Climbing In The British Isles Ireland Section was done for him by Donegal gentry-man Hart. Alan lent me his copy and it makes for good reading, which could still be used today. I think Alan, as a boy, got his copy autographed by Hart in the late 19th C.(joke).

Peter Cooper - 29/03/2012
Possibly the longest line in Ireland, plus the largest sea-stack and what Dave Flanagan rates as Ireland's best boulder problem. Donegal some county, hey boys?

Des O'Connor - 24/03/2012
me gots to have some of that

WS - 24/03/2012
Well Done Iain. looks like some epic too me!! Great exploration!

IM - 21/03/2012
A bit of a beast. :-)