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Editor: Pollnalong

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Crag Profile: Pollnalong

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Pollnalong

Directions:

A small dolerite sea cliff on the western coast of the Rosguill Peninsula. The climbs are 20-30m on good rock and provide pleasant climbing.

From Carrickgart follow the L131 north through Downings (tea shop at McNutts Tweed) and onto the Atlantic Drive (approx 3km from Downings).

Immediately after passing Croaghatur Hill on the seaward side there is a small parking spot. Follow a rough track, cross a stream and then head south down the coast along the cliff top. Pass two main inlets to reach a longwall facing south west across to excellent views of Sheep Haven to Horn Head and Tory island.

(Directions and Orientation to be updated...soon)

The climbs are in five shallow bays (5-1)described from North to South, i.e., from right to left when looking out to sea. Abseil access and a calm sea are required to reach the platforms just above the high water mark.

OS Grid Reference: C083405

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Bay 5 The Most Northerly Bay
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01 - Slippery Kipper
HS 4a
Length: 15m
MAughey, C Adams, P Williamson (3/10.85)
Start at the left-hand edge of the ledge. Climb the arete on the left of the slab. Loose rock at the top.
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02 - Salty Kipper
S 4a
Length: 15m
C Adams, M Aughey, P Williamson (3/10/85)
Start as for Tight Kipper. Climb the slab, but more left to avoid the bulge near the top.
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03 - Tight Kipper
VD -
Length: 15m
P Williamson, C Adams, M Aughey (3/10/85)
In Bay 5. Start on the right-hand side of the (obvious) ledge. Climb the crack at the right-hand edge of the slab.
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Bay 4
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04 - Stations of the Cross
S -
Length: 60m
R Dean, A Latham (Alt leads) (31/1/82)
A sea level traverse starting north of Bay 4 and continuing fairly easily to Bay 2. On the south side of this a spike was lassoed and a pendulum made to gain easier ground beyond. Traverse continues to a stream which discharges over the crag beyond Bay
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05 - Luca Brazzi (sleeps with fishes)
E1 5b
Length: 25m
P.Cooper and W.McGowan 18/10/03
Line starts at bottom left of r.hand wall in Bay4, head to centre of wall, gear spacey, then follow leftward rising line. Eventually reach horizontal left trav, use this to gain left arete and finish airily above.
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06 - King in Nyelam
HS 4b
Length: 20m
Bill Magowan, Alan Tees, Peter Cooper 18/10/03
Left of Peters Pillar (21c)in Bay 4,are some overhangs, and just left of this, climb a left trending line of weakness to a nick in a line of overhangs on the upper part of the face. Dynamic climbing through the small overhang on good holds & gear leads to a groove and easier ground.
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07 - Peter's Pillar
VS 4c
Length: 20m
P.Cooper, W.McGowan & A.Tees
Use the left face of the pillar at the mid-point between the bays, as it peeters out step left across gap, to finish up left side of steep face.
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Bay 3
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08 - Bendigo
VD 3c
Length: 20m
Alan Tees & Bill Magowan 18/10/03
Goes more or less up the middle of the slab on the northern side of Bay 3(left of "Not My Fault") into a broad scoop. Move delicately left, and up to finish.
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09 - Not my Fault
VD -
Length: 20m
A. Tees, M. McGuigan (Feb 2001)
Take the prominent back corner of Bay 3 (right of Maggies Bloomers facing out to sea) from a platform in the North
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10 - AJAR (Al & Julies anon. route)
HS 4b
Length: 20m
Al Millar & Julie
Takes the corner on the left hand edge of "Bendigo" Slab (Previously called Seapink) just right of Peter's Pillar. Crux is getting on to the arete above.
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11 - Spirit
HVS 5a
Length: 20m
P.Cooper & P.Smith 13/09/03
Approx 3M R. of start to 20 is an obvious steep crackline, start 1.5M to left (gear) to gain crack (crux no.1). Once in crack continue up to nose/overhang (small wire in crack at left of overhang)move left (crux no.2)onto slabby face. Head up to top of wall with trepidation. NOTE gear very spaced on whole of route!
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12 - Maggies Bloomers
S 4a
Length: 20m
M. McGuigan, A. Tees (Feb 2001)
Takes the large diedre in Bay 3. Crux is the direct finish up the steep corner on the top.
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13 - Stardust
E1 5a
Length: 20m
Sean Paling, Steve Connelly & Val Gillet. May 2003
Climbs the right side of the fine wall between Maggies Bloomers and Craos. Start in the corner at the base of Maggies Bloomers. Climb steeply up and rightwards (bold!) to meet the arete just below where the angle eases. Continue up then diagonally back left on the slab above, finishing up the leftwards slanting groove.
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14 - Craos
VS 4c
Length: 25m
D.Somers, I.Ryan 31/01/1982
From a stance below the overhangs move up and left to an obvious crack splitting the wall. Continue on through the bulge (crux) and onto easier ground above.
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15 - Mixed Bathing
D -
Length: 20m
D Stelfox, U MacPherson (31/1/82)
Takes the huge crack splitting the overhang at its right hand end.
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16 - Free Fall
HS 4b
Length: 20m
M Smith, I Rea, D Stelfox (30/1/82)
The arete at the left end of the bay.
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17 - Jammy Dodger
HS 4b
Length: 20m
I Rea, D Stelfox, M Smith (30/1/82)
The left-hand end of the slabby wall is bounded by a deep V-shaped groove and an arete. This route takes the groove.
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18 - Egg Banjo
S 3c
Length: 20m
/ Rea, M Smith, D Stelfox (30/1/82)
Takes a line up the slabby wall on the northern side of the inlet. Various variations.
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19 - Barney Rubble
VD -
Length: 22m
/ Rea, M Smith, D Stelfox (31/1/82)
The corner crack in the back of the inlet. Approached from platform on northern side.
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20 - Dino
*
S 4a
Length: 22m
M Smith, I Rea (31/1/82)
Takes the obvious sloping ramp steepening into a corner on the south side of the inlet.
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21 - Wacky Wall
HVS 5b
Length: 20m
M Smith, I Rea (31/1/82)
Start: At the bottom of Dino. Move up and right across the wall to gain better holds beneath small overhang. Move back left by delicate climbing around the overhang to gain easier ground above.
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Bay 2
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22 - Spiser
VS 4c
Length: 20m
TMcQueen, P McClenaghan (8/85)
Start on the southern side of Bay 2. Climb .easily just left of the crack/cleft. Where the crack closes at half height, move up using flakes and flat holds (crux). Finish up a corner.
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23 - Last Call For Donegal
S 4a
Length: 28m
A. Tees, M. M. Guigan (Feb 2001)
Start as for "Second Hand Dream" avoiding the overhang on the left, continuing up the corner - ramp on small holds on the edge finish on the arete
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24 - Second Hand Dream
VS 4c
Length: 28m
D Stelfox, U MacPherson 31/01/82
Start: Just left of Wafer. Up to first overhang which is passed on the right until the main overhang. Step left into deep crack (crux) and continue up onto the arete between bay 2 and bay 3. Follow the obvious diagonal traverse line (delicate) on th L side of the arete to the top.
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25 - Wafer
HS 4b
Length: 22m
E Cooper, M Manson (30/1/82)
Start: Just left of Ulster Fry. Follow a crack up the wall finishing on the obvious arete.
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26 - Ulster Fry
S 4a
Length: 20m
D Stelfox, I Rea (30/1/82)
The deep corner crack in the left-hand side of the bay wall. Crux at bottom.
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27 - Bubble and Squeak
S 4a
Length: 20m
D Stelfox, U MacPherson (31/1/82)
Takes the arete left of the two previous routes and right of Ulster Fry, starting from right-hand side.
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28 - Stroll
S 3c
Length: 20m
E Cooper, M Manson, M Smith (30/1/82)
The left-hand of the two deep cracks.
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29 - Runaway
S 4a
Length: 20m
M Manson, E Cooper (30/1/82)
Start: From platform on the northern side of the inlet. Follow the right-hand (from bottom) of the two obvious cracks.
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30 - Nearly New
S 4a
Length: 20m
E Goulding, M O'Brien (31/1/82)
Start: On the southern side of the inlet. Follow the obvious crack leading into the corner back of the bay.
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31 - Cream Cracker
D -
Length: 20m
O Jacob, K Higgs (31/1/82)
The deep corner cleft in the back of the bay.
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32 - Side Alley
HVS 5a
Length: 25m
KHiggs, O Jacob (31/1/82)
Takes the obvious deep crack in the left wall of the bay. Rock doubtful near top.
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