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Editor: Doagh Island

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Crag Profile: Doagh Island

Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes

Photo of crag from the photo gallery
new spot on Innishowen - class rock at the start of the routes, both lines go at HS. Photo taken at climbfest 2006 or 2005?

Directions: An interesting crag is to be found on the beach at Doagh Island opposite the five finger strand. Drive past the golf course onto Isle of Doagh and park opposite the worlds best Irish famine museum come Santas grotto. The crag can be found after a short walk up the beach from the car park. Some excellent bouldering routes and half a dozen trad climbs with nice sandy landings on some fairly unique rock are to be found. Worth a visit for those seeking a relaxed afternoon climbing or bouldering by the sea side.  The climbs are on two outcrops at the far end of the cliffy bit.  The Lagghorn is the prominent tower, threaded by a tunnel/cave, and there is a smaller outcrop with even more remarkable rock, just beyond. The Kleine Lagghorn.

OS Grid Reference: 5138

1 - sand storm
HS -
Length: 20m
J Read, R Hurson (climbfest 05 or 06)
line of the climber in this topo, up the face of the largest arete and crack and more or less straight up to finish, belay is miles away stakes would be useful
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2 - sand piper
VS -
Length: 20m
S Read, E Ross (April 2005)
Take the line to the right of sand storm, excellent easy climbing to start, taking an exposed airy line right up the face of the arete from the grassy ledge at mid height to finish.  Again the belay is miles away so a stake would be useful. Class climb that might be touching on VS and may be worth a star
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3 - Doagh bag
VS -
Length: 20m
J Read, A Glendinning (may 05)
great start to a climb, jump up from the left hand side of the cave to grab a small block.  Pull up and traverse rightwards on easier climbing to the top of the cliff.  Big chunk ripped off the starting block on the FA which may make it harder now   
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4 - Ampersand (&)
S 4a
Length: 25m
Alan Tees, Neil Machon 2/04/21
The seaward, west facing edge of the 'Lagghorn'.  Climb easily up the left hand edge, on sound rock, to a rib, which is also climbed easily.  The final tower looks scary and loose, but again, it has big jugs, if a bit thin on gear.  Spectacular route, and worthy of a star or two, but easy in the grade, (other than the exposure at the top).
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5 - De Spare Rib
S 4a
Length: 25m
Alan Tees, Neil Machon 2/04/21
The right hand edge of the west side of the Lagghorn has a leftward trending rib.  This is climbed from a trench at the bottom.  Gear is problematic to begin with, but is ok higher up.  Stay on the rock, as there is much grass to the right!
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