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Editor: Doagh Island

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Crag Profile: Doagh Island

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Doagh Island

Directions: An interesting crag is to be found on the beach at Doagh Island opposite the five finger strand. Drive past the golf course onto Isle of Doagh and park opposite the worlds best Irish famine museum come Santas grotto. The crag can be found after a short walk up the beach from the car park. Some excellent bouldering routes and half a dozen trad climbs with nice sandy landings on some fairly unique rock are to be found. Worth a visit for those seeking a relaxed afternoon climbing or bouldering by the sea side.  The climbs are on two outcrops at the far end of the cliffy bit.  The Lagghorn is the prominent tower, threaded by a tunnel/cave, and there is a smaller outcrop with even more remarkable rock, just beyond. The Kleine Lagghorn.

OS Grid Reference: 5138

1 - sand storm
HS -
Length: 20m
J Read, R Hurson (climbfest 05 or 06)
line of the climber in this topo, up the face of the largest arete and crack and more or less straight up to finish, belay is miles away stakes would be useful
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2 - sand piper
VS -
Length: 20m
S Read, E Ross (April 2005)
Take the line to the right of sand storm, excellent easy climbing to start, taking an exposed airy line right up the face of the arete from the grassy ledge at mid height to finish.  Again the belay is miles away so a stake would be useful. Class climb that might be touching on VS and may be worth a star
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3 - Doagh bag
VS -
Length: 20m
J Read, A Glendinning (may 05)
great start to a climb, jump up from the left hand side of the cave to grab a small block.  Pull up and traverse rightwards on easier climbing to the top of the cliff.  Big chunk ripped off the starting block on the FA which may make it harder now   
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9 - Far Pagoda
S 4a
Length: 10m
Alan Tees, Finbarr Mullin 21/04/23
On the wall left of the cave, is an obvious right facing corner.  Climb up easily in the corner, traverse left to gain the twisted 'Pagoda- like' pinnacle. A short series of strenuous, well- protected moves, on big holds, leads onto the spongy grass at the top
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10 - Allblack and Tans
HS 4b
Length: 10m
Alan Tees, Finbarr Mullin 21/04/23
Left of the cave, and right of \'Far Pagoda\', start below what looks like a short gully near the top of the crag.  Climb easily up to the gully, and steeply up the wall on the left on good holds and protection, following a distinctive diagonal crackline.
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4 - Ampersand (&)
S 4a
Length: 25m
Alan Tees, Neil Machon 2/04/21
The seaward, west facing edge of the 'Lagghorn'.  Climb easily up the left hand edge, on sound rock, to a rib, which is also climbed easily.  The final tower looks scary and loose, but again, it has big jugs, if a bit thin on gear.  Spectacular route, and worthy of a star or two, but easy in the grade, (other than the exposure at the top).
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6 - An Nollagg
S 3c
Length: 20m
Alan Tees, Anthony Feeney, 25/12.2022
This takes a line up the west facing slab of the Lagghorn.  Start on smooth rock, then crinkly rock, a bit of grass can be mostly avoided to the top.  Cold fingers on Christmas day, so it may only be V diff, but protection hard to find.
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8 - Herringbone
S 4a
Length: 15m
Not Known
On the west side of the Lagghorn, just right of An Nolagg, is a meandering strip of herringbone patterned slab.  Follow this on great friction, and climb into the corner above, which is easier than it looks, and better protected than below.
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5 - De Spare Rib
S 4a
Length: 25m
Alan Tees, Neil Machon 2/04/21
The right hand edge of the west side of the Lagghorn has a leftward trending rib.  This is climbed from a trench at the bottom.  Gear is problematic to begin with, but is ok higher up.  Stay on the rock, as there is much grass to the right!
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7 - Dali Not
HS 4b
Length: 10m
Alan Tees, George Beaumont
This takes a short but gymnastic line on the right hand side of the Kleine Lagghorn.
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