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Editor: Lough Belshade (Two Tier Buttress)

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Crag Profile: Lough Belshade (Two Tier Buttress)

Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes

Directions: To the right of the main face and almost directly above the Red Wall are two walls of clean rock each with a prominent central, rightward sloping crack. The two tiers are separated by a large grassy ledge. Access is from the easy grass and rocky slope to the right of the crag. The first three routes below are on the lower buttress, and the fourth on the upper.

OS Grid Reference: G975901

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10 - Sweet Bird
VS 4b
Length: 20m
I Rea, D Stelfox (8/5/82)
Start: At the extreme left hand side of the buttress. Move up and hand traverse right for about 5m to a flake (runner). Continue hand traversing until a line of holds leads up and left to a bulge (No 1 Friend is only protection). Move right to a good foothold and then delicately left until possible to reach an excellent jug and swing beautifully up.
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11 - Quality Street
VS 4c
Length: 20m
D Stelfox, I Rea (8/5/82)
Start: Route takes the central line. Moving in from the right, climb the obvious system of ledges to gain the prominent crack and climb this to the top. A direct start (5c) of the prominent crack of Quality Street has been climbed by J McDonald (4/85).
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12 - Sidelines
HS 4b
Length: 20m
I Rea, D Stelfox (8/5/82)
Start: Right of Quality Street at two thin cracks. Climb the lower of the two cracks and at half height step left to gain the upper crack. Delicate moves lead to a good ledge on the left. Finish over a bulge, trending left to the top.
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13 - Tennessee Stud
VS 4c
Length: 20m
I Rea, D Stelfox (8/5/82)
Start: Takes the central crack on the upper buttress. The crack is followed directly. The crux is gaining a small niche at two-thirds height.
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14 - Fitt for a Lord
*
VS 4b
Length: 68m
W Brown Kerr, D. Kirkpatrick, D. Stewart 25/08/84
VS 3c, 4b Above and to the left of Red Wall is a prominent overhang, shadowing a steep clean groove. Start below and to the left of the groove at a slab tongue coming down from the left. The first pitch is avoidable.

1) 18m Up and right edge of the slab, moving right at 15m to gain a small ledge and poor belay at the foot of the groove.

2) 50m Up the groove, forking left below the overhang. Move left and down slightly to gain a good horizontal crack leading left across the wall. Hand traverse left across this to gain the arete. Up this (crux) to wall above which is climbed more easily to the top.


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15 - The Red Wall
VS 4c
Length: 14m
I Rea, A Currans and A McQuoid.
Below, and to the right of the above route is a prominent clean and featureless slab of reddish granite with a short square cut corner at its right hand end. Four routes have been recorded on the wall . All are in the VS 4a-4c grades. There is no protection available and route descriptions are unnecessary. In addition there is Wassock Corner at HS 4b, the corner at the right end of the wall, climbed by A Currans, A McQuoid 4/8/81.
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