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Editor: Eglish (Easter Wall)

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Crag Profile: Eglish (Easter Wall)

Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes

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Easter Wall, Eglish. - A Carrickfin Candidate.
B Mad Dogs & Eglishmen.
C Mandolins.
D Easter Eigg.
E Marginal Moves.

Directions: The large vaguely "Diamond Shaped" wall at the back of the valley, approx. 30 to 40 minutes fom the end of the bog track Ref. 870951

OS Grid Reference: G952882

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01 - Mad Dogs and Eglishmen
* *
VS 4b
Length: 50m
A Tees, B Johnston (7/4/96)
At the bottom of the main face is a short wall split by two cracks leading to a large grassy ledge. Climb the cracks and continue up on good jugs, following the line of weakness until you meet a grassy terrace coming up from the right - belay. Easier climbing on cracks and flakes to the top.
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02 - Easter Eigg
*
HS 4b
Length: 15m
B Johnston, K Gallagher (7/4/96)
About half way across the lower clean wall, to the right of the main face. Awkward start, then follow the line of weakness straight up to the top.
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03 - Marginal moves
HS 4a
Length: 15m
Alan and Andrew Tees (7/4/96)
About 2m right of'Easter Eigg' is an obvious crack running close to, and parallel with the edge of the wall. Layback the crack and then continue up steeply on good jugs.
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04 - Carrickfinn Candidate
E1 5a
Length: 25m
P Nelis, A N Other (7/4/96)
(2 pitches) E1/HS The first part of this route goes up the unprotected rock right of the large circular overhang on the left-hand side of Easter Wall. The upper section climbs a clean curving crack above, which leads to the top.
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05 - Plato's Republic
* * *
HVS 5a
Length: 25m
A. Millar J. Frazer 3/5/Ol
On the bottom left of Easter crag is the best looking rock on the crag and an obvious feature, an eye shape formed by a groove that curves over leftwards to become an overhang at five metres. Climb to the top of the groove left of, and under 'Carrickfinn Candidate' and step right over overhang to difficult stance then back to left to good "eyebrow" foothold on lip of the overhang. Move up find slab via good breaks to stance below a short left trending corner/crack. Climb this awkwardly to ledge then move right up short corner to finish. A fine climb!
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06 - Mandolins
VS 4c
Length: 25m
A Tees, V Russell (5/5/96)
The right hand side of the main face is bounded by a grassy heather terrace, part way up this is a cracked wall which narrows almost into an arete towards the top. Start on spikes in its centre and continue up to the overhang, move right (crux) and up onto the edge. An awkward move left onto small footholds brings you to the base of the neck. Steep exposed climbing to the top.
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ctTun - Aryan
D 5a
No length recorded
e8qa7Dn3Ufs
This could not polsbisy have been more helpful!
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4a - Rapa Nui
* *
S 4a
Length: 50m
Alan Tees, Valli Schafer 22/08/11
Just right of "Carrickfin Candidate" there are cleaned cracks.  Pitch 1,(25m) access the crackline by a short leftward trending ramp, and continue up the cracks, big jugs above, and finally a short slab to access a big ledge on the right, belay. Pitch 2 (25m), continue up into the corner on the right,  climb onto a ledge or two, before steep rock above is overcome on a feast of spikes. Continue up on rock to belay.  Should be a fine route of it's grade once weathered.
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