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Editor: Malin Head (Devil's Bridge Area)

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Crag Profile: Malin Head (Devil's Bridge Area)

Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes

Directions:

Approach as for "Sea Area Malin" but walk along a minor path directly west, until you reach the well known, picturesque but modest, "Devil's Bridge". The climbs are mainly on the south facing wall of the next zawn, immediately north.

 

Access is subject to permission from the Landowner John Ward. email john@headland.ie

OS Grid Reference: C383590

Click here to view location in Google Maps
00 - Northern Bites: Trevor's Vow
D -
Length: 6m
Alfie Conn and Trevor Hartley 6 November 2011
A few metres to the West of the V and near sea level is a sloping ledge. From the left end of this ledge climb beside a left/right trending off width to a large chockstone and the top
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01 - Minor Oversight
VD -
Length: 10m
A.Tees, Pete Smith 04
Two thirds along the south facing wall of the zawn just north of Hells Hole (just beyond a black dyke)is a V shaped niche or alcove. Abseil down to the sea, and climb the back corner crack, up the ramp on the RHS of the "V".
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00aa - Jellyfish
D -
Length: 10m
Alfie Conn and John Niven 17/6/2012
A few metres to the West of the V and near sea level is a large sloping ledge. Descend below this to the rock pinacle. Roughly half way along the wall is a short crack. Go up this to a ledge and then up the ridiculously sharp flakes. A pathetic route used to escape after the leader showed a lack of backbone!
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00a - Guiness Gives You Strength
S 4a
Length: 12m
Trevor Hartley and Alfie Conn 12/5/12
A few metres to the West of the V and near sea level is a large sloping ledge. Descend below this to the rock pinacle. At the Eastern end of this a toe of rock descends into the sea and there is a short crack above that. Make a few moves over this crack and onto a ledge. Above this is a slightly overhanging chimney full of spikes. Up this to the top. If the tide is high or the sea too rough for the start, it is easy to traverse from the large sloping ledge to the bottom of the chimney
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02 - Seabird
HS 4b
Length: 10m
Pete Smith, July 04
Takes the crack just over a metre to the right of "Oversight".
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03 - Andy's Route
HS 4a
Length: 10m
Andy Tees, Alan Tees July 04
Climbs the pillar forming the left hand side of the "V"on good rock.
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04 - Car Door
HVS 5a
Length: 17m
P.Cooper & B.Wingham 07/04
In the area called Tyrolean Zawn and 1M r. of 'Sea Bird', when tide is low. Start below a shallow niche and climb directly up the slab, gear a bit spaced.
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05 - Tyrolean Dyke
HVS 5a
Length: 17m
P.Cooper & G.Thomas 31/08/08
In the Tyrolean Zawn a steep black dyke of rock can be seen on the r. of 'Sea Bird' and 'Car Door' climbs; at left end of the main face.The line climbs up the r.hand side, with a step left to finish at the top. Not finished direct as my tired little fingers found that this Tyrolean Dyke got quite moist at the finish!Beware of occasional crumbling holds and gear placements on this and particularly on climbs to the r.of this.
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- Lay off the chips
VS 4c
Length: 10m
Trevor Hartley 15/7/2012
At the eastern end of the zawn and at sea level is a small pinnacle. This is split from the main cliff by an off width crack. Startbelow the crack on the seaward side. Layback until your body fits into the slot. Then grunt to the top. The grade is diet dependant  as well as limpets/barnacle growth. Protection depends on the wedged flotsam.Accessable at low tide. This was not seconded as neap tide was coming in and had to rig an abseil from top of cliff to rescue a crag fast leader!
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06 - Stormy Days
* *
E2 5c
Length: 12m
D.Millar & P.Cooper, May 2006

At the eastern most end of the Hells Hole Area/Zawn (GR383590) a right facing open book corner exists at the base of a sloping ramp. Stormy Days climbs the steep right facing corner right of this half way up the sloping ramp. Belay on abseil rope and cams in horizontal crack at base of corner. Climb corner, to top, sustained.


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7 - Bat out of Hell
D -
Length: 10m
Columba McLaughlin and Margaret Quinn April 2015
In the Zawn on the Western side of the Devil's Bridge, abseil down the South Western corner of the Bridge. There is a very noticeable aréte. Climb this.
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8 - Stairway to Heaven
D -
Length: 20m
Columba McLaughlin and Margaret Quinn April 2015
At lowest tide, start at a point lower than Bat out of Hell. Easily traverse diagonally upwards and under the southern wall of the Bridge. Climb the the south-eastern corner of the bridge.
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- Traverse Of The Prods
VD -
Length: 40m
Alfie Conn and Trevor Hartley 15/7/2012
On the southern side of the zawn a ramp leads down to the sea opposite the V shaped inset. Start at the bottom ish of this ramp and traverse East. Follow the obvious hand traverse around the corner. The rest is mainly a scramble best undertaken in a gale for maximum exposure. Go around another easier but often damp corner and so to a flat rock stuck in a loose easy angled chimney. Go up the wall right of this.
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