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Editor: Gola - Mhachaire na nGall Walls

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Crag Profile: Gola - Mhachaire na nGall Walls

Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes

Photo of crag from the photo gallery
Mhachaire na nGall Walls - Still plenty to go down there.

Directions:

From the beach (Tra Mhachaire na nGall) walking toward the main crag you encounter the first small zawn with a stony beach at its end. Scramble down ledges on the west of the zawn and you come to an east-facing corner (DidEye and Chinface) with twin cracks on its left (Bootleg). Walking around the cliff base west you come to another corner facing west (Currach) and finally to a short sea wall with a small shallow boulder filled zawn below (Walrus Wall).

(If the left-to-right ordering is out please let me know? PC)

OS Grid Reference: B764271

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165 - Alan’s Route (line)
S 4a
Length: 14m
A. Tees
Climb the right trending ramp at the far left of the crag.
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165a - Jam Jar *
VS 4c
Length: 12m
J. Hawkins, P. O'Farrell. 30/03/97
This unusual route takes the obvious vertical flared crack/groove on the left of the crag. Climb it however possible to the top. Carefully placed friends for protection.
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166 - Wendy Raindrops
VD
No length recorded
S.McMullan (solo) 6 July '96
Traversing in from the right side of the seawall along the terrace, a large hold ridden groove is encountered. Climb it, or else don't!
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166a - Horizontal Heaven
VS 5a
Length: 8m
P. Reid, K. Kilroy 05/06/10
On the south facing wall between Bootleg and Wendy Raindrops. Climb the lower wall directly to reach horizontal breaks and finish with an under cling/mantle.
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167 - Currach
VD
Length: 8m
M.Daly (solo) 2 June '96
Further along this ledge there is a west-facing corner. The route takes this corner.
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170 - Whoops Jonny
HS 4a
Length: 8m
S Grew, A McCalman, June 2015
The ar?te just left of Bootleg. Slopey and interesting for an HS.
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1 - The Golan Lament
VS 4c
Length: 9m
R Kernan, L Davison 13/6/14
The arete 4m right of Currach, climbed on its left side. Good gear in the breaks. Feels exposed!
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167a - You Forgot The Battery Mummy
VS 4c
Length: 9m
Rónán Kernan, Conor Gilmour 5/6/12
About 20m left of DidEye and Chinface is a large roof with a chimney at its left-hand end. Left of this chimney is a short overhanging route following a series of flakes to a green v-groove between the wall and a block. Climb these, finishing in the groove left of the block. Pumpy.
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1 - The Speed of Dampness
VS 4b
Length: 8m
R Kernan, L Davison 13/6/14
Fist sized crack 10m left of Bootleg. Jam painfully up the crack, finishing up easier ground.
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167b - All The Power
HVS 5a
Length: 12m
P. Reid, K. Kilroy 05/06/10
Climbing the dog leg crack 2m left of Wendy Raindrops. Protect lower section with Cams and loads of protection on the upper leftward section of the crack.
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1 - You Promised Me Jugs
VS 4b
Length: 8m
L Davison, R Kernan, S McCaffrey 13/6/14
Starts just right of The Speed of Dampness. Steep moves off the ground lead to a groove. Sustained.
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167c - Driver
E1 5b
Length: 20m
K. Kilroy, P. Reid (5/6/2010)
Climbs the leftward trending crack up the middle of the wall 3 meters left of 'All the Power'. Start at a semi hanging belay on the ledge directly below All the Power. Make balancey then strenuous moves up the leftward trending crack to gain a good ledge. Finish directly up the wall above and into a deep recess.
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168 - Bootleg
S 4a
No length recorded
M.Daly (solo) 2 June '96
The route is on a wall just left of the first corner. Climb the left trending jam crack to top.
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169 - DidEye and Chinface
S 4a
No length recorded
S.McMullan (solo) 2 June '96
The east-facing corner viewable from the beach climb the corner with increasing difficulty.
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169a - Speed Of Darkness
HS 4a
Length: 8m
A. Isa, M. Cooley 2/06/2008
Climb the slightly overhanging vertical crack 3m to the right of the corner directly. Sustained but easy in the grade.
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169b - Black Blood Arete
HVS 5b
Length: 8m
K. Kilroy, S. Black (11/7/2011)
Climbs the steep left hand side of the short curving arete (incut at its base) visible from the beach, just right of The Speed of Darkness.  Start directly below the arete reaching for the first good break, launch up leftwards through an initial crux section and up the wall above. Well protected. Mats used on F.A
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169c - The Mothman
VS 5a
Length: 7m
K. Kilroy, Benoit (11/7/2011)
The righthand side of Blood Black Arete. Start directly below the arete as for BBA and then launch up and right through a crux section to follow the cracked and broken wall with trepidation to the top. Mats used on F.A.
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