Editor: Ben Cormac (Lough Barra) | |
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Crag Profile: Ben Cormac (Lough Barra) |
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Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes |
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Directions: Large vegetated crag (Ben Cormac) fernenst Lough Barra. There is a cleaned slab to its right (Sirloin Slab) and a separate hillock further right (East) again, with a obvious right angled corner facing the road (Carrig an Sneachda). OS Grid Reference: B926125 Click here to view location in Google Maps |
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1 - Sunseeker
Length: 120m J.Leonard, S.R..Young (alt leads)23/04/73 Start at the lowest point of the white slabs to the left (facing) of the crag, directly below an overhanging flake at about 35M. The route takes a meandering line up the left hand side of the slabs. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
2 - Paleface
Length: 115m R.McKee, P.Wells (19/04/81) Start for "Sunseeker" at the lowest point of the slabs. The route taked a fairly direct line ip the easier angled pale coloured slabs. It passes through an obvious gap in a heather terrace at about 30M, continues up yhe overhanging flake,and climbs a short sickle shaped crack leading to an overhang. Many variations possible. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
3 - Paleface (super Direct)
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E1 5aLength: 103m I & M Miller 15/05/05 1. 25m 4A Start at lowest point of slabs, climb up trending left to a grassy stance below a short steep wall. 2. 25m 4A Climb up the steep wall on perfect jugs and gear, continue direct to a small grassy ledge. Belay on 2 very poor spikes at base of right facing corner. 3. 28m 5A Climb RH corner to a smaller grassy perch. Climb direct up gearless, holdless immaculate slab to a steep cracked step. Climb up on to "crow's nest" stance to another poorly geared belay. (20 mtr run out on superb rock and atmosphere) 4. 25m Climb direct to top of slabs and belay left of grassy pillar. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
4 - One and Only
Length: 125m J.Peers, J.Reid (31/08/64) This route takes a central line up the main cliff. The central terrace is reached by easy climbing up the central lower slabs below the prominent corner in the upper part of the terrace. Climb through the forest to it's highest point about 19m right of the corner. Up overhang and then left into corner. Move out left onto rib, and climb this to easy vegetated ground. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
5 - Garda Fox
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VS 4bLength: 40m Alan & Andy Tees 14/06/03 Start at the top of the vegetation on the l.h.s.of the slab, beside some small trees. Follow the L.H.edge of the slabs(starting on a horizontal hold & flake)& continue up,passing a vegetated ledge on its right. the crux is a layback/mantleshelf move about 2/3 way up(no.1 friend around corner on left).On reaching overhanging rock,traverse right to gain crack & up to finish. 15m broken ground to top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
6 - Sergeant Pluck
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E2 5bLength: 43m Ronnie Smith & Bill Magowan 2/10/03 Start 2 metres left of the lowest point of the slab. Move up left to right trending cracks, surmounting a slight bulge (delicate) until just below a horizontal quartzite vein. Excellent move up over bulge leads to thin crack on right which shortly fades out. Step left into major crack in centre of slab and follow (layback) to top.
Good selection of small cams comes in handy. Route was previously top-roped by Bill Magowan, Alan Tees and Peter Cooper. Climbed on-sight by Ronnie Smith. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
7 - Jet Stream
E1 5cLength: 40m K McGee, P Tinney. 13/11/11 Start halfway between Sgt Pluck and Tapping the Vein below a thin crack that runs up the slab. Climb to the bottom of the crack and trend left into Sgt Pluck for a few metres. Step back right at the top of the crack and move up over the slab to a poor nut/cam in a flake. With the flake on your right climb directly up the white slab to a good hold beside a tuft of grass. Trend right to gain the crack and follow this to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
8 - Tapping the Vein
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HVS 4cLength: 40m Andy & Alan Tees. 14/06/03 This takes the obvious quartzite vein, running up the RHS. of the slab. Effectively unprotected for the first 30% of the route. After 12m. there is a flake behind which a friend was preplaced, and clipped, on the first ascent.Continue up,over pocket,and climb friction slab to small corner with small holds on its left edge. Above this, reach flakes and easier ground. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
9 - Bismuth C
Length: 24m G.Earnshaw 13/01/64 The original route on Carraeg an Snettir, a small "Hump" below and to the right of Ben Cormac. This climbs the prominent right angled corner on its right hand side, below a small holly tree. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
10 - The Case International Brigade
Length: 15m Not known A pleasent route tippy toeing up the crack in the left wall of the main corner View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
11 - The Circle Game
Length: 18m Paul Dunlop, J.Brown 9/06/93 Left of the main wall, there is a large corner with 3 grooves. This route climbs the centre one, past several jammed blocks. At the top of this, arrange some small wires, step right and climb the steep groove above (Technical). View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
12 - 14,000 Peach Trees
Length: 20m Al Millar, N.Grimes. Second corner left of Case International. Climb steep slabby corner. As the rock steepens, jugs become apparent. Continue to the top. Good small wires at the bottom. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
