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Editor: Barnesmore Gap - McDaid's Buttress

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Crag Profile: Barnesmore Gap - McDaid's Buttress

Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes

Directions: This crag lies on the opposite side of Barnesmore Gap to Biddys Buttress. Two routes have been put up on the short but steep SW wall, which has a distinct curving crack in a smooth face. Park at the lay-by as for Biddys Buttress. Cross the road and slog up the steep heather slopes for about 10 mins. A short twin cracked wall lies roughly 400m to the north (right if your looking up at the McDaid's buttress) at roughly the same height. The small crag at the same height facing Ballybofey has yet to be climbed.

OS Grid Reference: H032854

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1 - Keema Nan
*
E1 5b
Length: 10m
D.Millar & P.Cooper June 2003
This takes the series of broken cracks on the highest(left hand) end of the SW wall as you are looking at it. Climb steep finger crack using good finger locks and a curving crack on the right to a good jug. Continue steeply up the obvious cracks on awesome jugs and flakes to a good rest at a jammed block. Continue rightwards and upwards in a fantastic position on great holds to top. Belay well back.
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2 - Road Kill
* * *
E2 5c
Length: 11m
D.Millar & P.Cooper June 2003
This follows the obvious curving crack in the centre of the smooth, steep SW wall. Start 4m right of Keema Nan below a short steep corner. Climb the short rightward facing corner to a jammed tennis ball sized block in a horizontal crack. Tetter leftwards to below the main crack proper (F3.5). Climb crack using finger locks to a good rest. Continue towards the top in a fantastic position.
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3 - Riders in the Storm
*
HVS 5a
Length: 12m
Dave Millar, Kevin McGee, Patrick Tinney
Climbs the slab and high corner on the far right of the main buttress. Climb slab at the bottom right of the main buttress via some great featured rock tio the base of the short corner, climb this to the top (crux).
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4 - Millenium Falcon
VS 4c
Length: 12m
D.Millar & M.Gardiner June 11th 2004
This route lies on a short twin cracked wall on the same side of the gap as McDaids buttress. It lies roughly 400m to the north (right if your looking up at the McD buttress) at roughly the same height. Description: Climb the right hand crack on good rock. Good gear all the way, belay back and to the right.
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