Road Kill * * * |
Location: Barnesmore Gap - McDaid's Buttress
Grade: E2 5c
Length: 11m
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| First ascent: D.Millar & P.Cooper June 2003 |
| Route Description: |
| This follows the obvious curving crack in the centre of the smooth, steep SW wall. Start 4m right of Keema Nan below a short steep corner. Climb the short rightward facing corner to a jammed tennis ball sized block in a horizontal crack. Tetter leftwards to below the main crack proper (F3.5). Climb crack using finger locks to a good rest. Continue towards the top in a fantastic position. |
Dave Millar on Roadkill E2 5c, Barnesmore Gap - Rodney got eaten alive by midgies taking this shot, so was very thankful of the belay
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| Comments |
Peter Cooper - 24/06/2010
I'm not aware of any other ascents of these, yet. The current access issues don't affect this side of the valley. Folks have been making quiet ascents of Barnesmore Buttress, it's entirely dependant upon whether the owner is in the vicinty. Not that we'd encourage anybody to continue accessing an established crag with fine routes and where climbers have not caused damage nor started legal actions where injured due to their own fault. |
Rodders - 18/06/2010
I know it was a long time ago but just reading these comments now and see my name mentioned a wee bit so thought I'd just chip in with my recollection of the event(s). I recall 2nding Dave on what I was told at the the time was the 1st ascent of this route. The history books clearly show that it wasn't. No big deal but the comments are confusing. I can though confirm that both myself and Julie (who took the photo) did indeed get ate alive by midgies!
oh yeah while I'm here, have these routes had 2nd ascents does anyone know? And do the access problems at biddy's butress extend to here?
Also are those midgies still there?.... |
Rodders - 18/06/2010
..oh yeah I'm not disputing the fact that Dave and Pete did the 1st ascents of these routes btw. I'd just like to distance myself from any confusion or controversy (I find that easy enough myself :)) regarding the 1st ascents of these routes. I just 2nded a pal on a couple of good wee routes, doesn't matter to me if my name's in the guide for doing so or not. |
Peter Cooper - 29/04/2008
Dave hides his light under a very modest bushel, you will find this route fairly clean because he led this on-sight whilst cleaning and in drizzle! HARD in my humble opinion (must get myself some of those 'balls of steel'). |
Peter Cooper - 09/09/2007
Just browsing the website and noted this error. Regardless of valiance in the face of midges on a subsequent ascent, it should be noted that Rodney was not on the first ascent of this line. Rodney would quite rightly want to ensure that ethics were not compromised. Guidebook editors take note. |
Alan Tees - 29/08/2007
Interesting. |
Dave Millar - 04/07/2005
Rodney Moore also needs to be mentioned in the first ascent as he very kindly held my ropes as he was getting ate alive by midges. Did this at the weekend, gear good, although a bit thin to start, but improves once you get up to the first main horizontal break. |
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