Editor: Cruit Island - Far West Buttress | |
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Crag Profile: Cruit Island - Far West Buttress |
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Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes |
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Directions: From The Albatross Zawn follow the coastal path South West for Approx. 200m. The Far West Buttress is the steep slab of excellent North West facing rock with a convienient cave on the high water mark in the centre of the slab. OS Grid Reference: B729207 Click here to view location in Google Maps |
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1 - Splits
VD -Length: 15m P Conroy, G Parle (3/8/85) Far West Buttress GR. 728206 200m further west, just left of a cave. Up a rib on the left of the buttress proper. Step awkwardly onto the headwall and on up to the top View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
2 - High Road
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S 4aLength: 20m I. Miller , C. Gleeson 18/08/08 Climb "Splits" to half height, stretch across to main wall on your right to gain a deep right trending crack. Follow the crack steeply to summit. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
3 - Low Road
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VS 5aLength: 20m I. Miller, C. Gleeson 18/08/09 Climb "Splits" for a few meters and make an airy wee move rightwards to gain the jugs immediately above the roof below. Traverse right just above the roof on superb rock and jugs. Follow the natural fault line to summit. Excellent exposure! View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
4 - First Blood
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VS 5aLength: 20m I Miller, K Mcgee 12/09/05 At the back of the overhung recess, 8 mtr left of the "flop." Climb boldly upto the jammed white bouy to a good ledge. Continue steeply up right following the flakes and jugs to and excellent crux at half hieght to a further smaller ledge. Climb direct to summit on slightly poor rock. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
5 - The Fan Man
Length: 23m R Higgins, D Walsh (3/8/85) Flop, then escape left out of the groove into the crack at 3m (crux). Follow the cracks near the arete to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
6 - Cruit Crack
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S Length: 23m D Walsh, R Higgins (3/8/85) Flop over the chasm guarding the left-hand side of the buttress. Climb the groove, then the rightward-trending crack to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
7 - Fireslab
Length: 26m D Walsh, R Higgins (5/8/85) Flop, then traverse high and diagonally right and up until forced to climb straight up (crux) to gain a fault and step right onto the arete. Follow this and the headwall to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
8 - Uaigneas
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VS 4cLength: 26m D Walsh, R Higgins (3/8/85) Flop, then traverse low and right to gain the foot of a prominent right-facing corner, go up this with increasing difficulty, on the right, to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
9 - St. Daniel of Cruit
E1 5aLength: 22m P.Cooper, D.Millar & A.Tees 22/05/06 Same approach as for Average Contents. Traverse in to middle of slab and then proceed up to meet shallow crackline. Gear a bit thin and progressively harder to place. Touch of an eliminate line (no surprises there then!) try to keep your soul pure and avoid escaping left to Uiagneas or right. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
10 - Average Contents
Length: 15m R Higgins, D Walsh (3/8/85) Approach the crag from the right, go down a ramp and traverse left to reach a cave low in the centre and belay. Escape dramatically up left over the overhang and then follow the crack directly above. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
11 - Less Than Average Contents
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VD Length: 15m R Higgins, D Walsh (3/8/85) Escape right of the overhang and follow the overhang to the top slab. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
12 - Clann Crack
Length: 15m G Parle, P Conroy (3/8/85) The continuous off-width crack just right of the cave View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
12a - The Edge
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HS 4aLength: 15m I Miller, C Gleason Climb the right hand edge of the crag with excellent flowing moves to join "Two Move Blunder" in the upper reaches View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
12b - Two Move Blunder
Length: 15m I. Miller, C. Gleeson 04/05/12 Climb as for "One Move Wonder" at half height pull through the steep, almost roof crack and romp to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
13 - One-Move Wonder
Length: 15m P Conroy, G Parle (3/8/85) The obvious left-curving chimney on the right of the crag. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
14 - Elephant's Trunk
Length: 15m G Parle, M. Mills (4/8/85) | |||
14a - The Bowels
Length: 15m I Miller, C Gleason 17/6/12 Next right of "The Elephants Trunk" is a very deep cleft. Climb it with a tricky start and a bit of a squeeze just above View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
15 - Trident
VD Length: 10m Alan Tees & The Pailing Girls 1990? Approaching the wall from the West, descending a ramp, there are 3 deep clean parallel cracks on the right, two of which reach the top. Choose your route. (VD/S) View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
15a - Crimp For The Big
Length: 10m I Miller, C Gleason 28/4/12 Climb the wall to the right of the Trident grooves View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
15b - More Tridents
Length: 10m ? To the right of Crimp for The Big slab there are three parrallell grooves all about diff View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
16 - Cave Rave.
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S 4aLength: 32m I. Miller, C. Gleeson 17/04/10 At it's Western end, the "Far west Buttress" terminates into a big daddy of a sea cave/tunnel. On the seaward wall of the cave, climb the inverted ridge with considerable atmosphere. Pitch 1. 6m From sea level climb the left trending hand crack to the right hand end of a superb non tidal ledge. Pitch 2. 25m 4a Traverse out left along the ledge until you are overlooking the void. Circumnavigate the void on jugs and superb rock/gear, keep overlooking the void as you ascend for full effect. A superb pitch. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
17 - Gadaboot Chimney.
Length: 21m I. Miller 17/04/10 This route cimbs the right trending chimney in the centre of the face. Pitch 1. 6m As for "Cave Rave." Pitch 2. 15m. At the right hand end of the non tidal ledge, back & foot the right trending chimney until forced into grassy shenanigans at it's summit. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
18 - Lapping sea's groove
Length: 20m I. Miller, Nepal Paul 12/05/10 From the same ledge at 5m from sea level, (as for Cave Rave & Gadaboot Chimney) climb the right trending fault to the right of Gadaboot Chimney. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
19 - Strangeness S
Length: 20m Iain Miller, Caoimhe Gleeson 12/04/12 Approx 30m on the sea ward side of Cave Rave climb the center of the black triangle of rock following the central groove. Holds and gear become increasingly unhelpful as height is gained. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
14b - Louise's Day Out
Length: 10m L OConnor, H Hennessy 24/4/2013 5 meters right of the "bowels", climb left trending ramp and move
out right to follow a groove to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
