Editor: Winter Routes. Muckish | |
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Crag Profile: Winter Routes. Muckish |
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Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes |
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Directions: The North Face of Muckish Mountain contains a huge steep sided coire with numerous gullies. OS Grid Reference: B999285 Click here to view location in Google Maps |
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1 - Muckish Stone Chute/SAC
I Length: 300m Alan Tees, Finbarr Mullin, Bonny Pailing, Bill Magowan, 15/01/10 The stone chute has been done many times over many winters, but this is a new interesting top out! Climb a short cleft in the rock band, on the left at the top, and continue up short steep gully to summit plateau. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
2 - Balors Backbone
II -Length: 120m P. Tinney , G. Scott & K. McGee. 27- 2 - 2010 About 40 meters right (south) of Balors Pinnacle there is a obvious steep gully splitting the rock band. Climb this to the top. Angle eases after 60 meters then another rock band is reached. Climb the rock or up easier gully on right. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
3 - The Viper Pit
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IV Length: 120m K Mc Gee, P Tinney. (27/02/10) To the right of the massive overhang is a small gully. Climb up this on steepening ice to the top. This point can also be gained by numerous variations to the right of the gully. Traverse left along a ledge above the overhang until you reach a small snow slope leading to a corner. Climb this and continue up to the final rock band. Climb up past a large flake, place some gear, hook a chock stone and hope the turf is frozen for the exit on the right. Climb the long snow slope and any rock you can find on the way to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
4 - Scunnered
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IV Length: 50m K McGee, P Tinney 5/12/10 Climb the same ice gully as the Viper Pit. At the top of the gully move right and climb up the steep v corner. At the top of this move right round the corner and climb up over a large jammed flake about 5 feet up with good hooks onto the edge of the arete. Continue to top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
- Comfortably Numb
Length: 50m K McGee, P Tinney. 24/03/13 The route is located about 15m left of the corner of the buttress. Climb the short wall to the left of the small overhang(7ft high) to a ledge. Move slightly right and make a few steep moves up the next wall, exit left on to a ledge and follow easy ground up the corner. Bridge up the final few metres of the corner until the sloping ledge on the right can be gained. Traverse right to a large belay ledge which is shared with the Nutcracker.Climb up the thin groove at the left edge of the belay ledge. Follow this as it trends right up the open book corner. Move to the left edge of the ledge and climb the corner crack to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
5 - Winter Nutcracker
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IV Length: 50m K McGee, P Tinney 28/11/10 Start left of the corner of the buttress. Follow the obvious line of weakness up two steps to a stance on a large block. Step out right into the small corner which leads to the left edge of the ledge. Move to the right of the ledge and climb the steep corner to gain a stance at the base of the chimney. Make a few awkward moves to get into it and climb easily to the top. Start in the centre of the final wall and move left to gain the edge and follow this to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
6 - Bogeyman
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IV Length: 45m K McGee, P Tinney 19/12/10 Start to the right of the corner of the buttress. Follow the obvious rightward trending ramp to level with the odd rock formations. Step left to a protruding block to gain a stance in a small alcove. Climb steeply to the large platform. The next section is the crux but well protected. Move left and follow the line of the vertical crack using thin horizontal cracks for upward progess. Haul yourself into a stance behind the large block. Move easily behind this and into the chimney and climb up and then out the righthand corner. Follow a crack line(large cam at base)on the right edge of the final wall to a stance below a slighty overhanging corner with some loose stones at the top. Climb this to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
7 - Pick'n'Mix
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D Length: 100m Unknown To the right of the Winter Nutcracker climb past the edge of the large buttress to gain access to two gullies seperated by a rib with numerous rock outcrops that lead to the quarry. Any number of variations can be taken offering simple snow plods to technical moves on iced up rock to short steep ice steps. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
8 - Mine Sweeper
I -Length: 60m P. Tinney. 27 - 2 - 2010 At the back of the mine on the far left there is a nice line leading to the summit . It has 3 small rock bands which add interest and a steep snow slope at the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
8a - Easter Rising
I -Length: 60m Alan Tees, Martin McGuigan, Columba Mclaughlin 30th March 2013 To the right of Mine Sweeper climb the rightwards trending ramp until the rock band. Surmount this and easier snow to summit. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
9 - Crowe's Gully
I Length: 60m Not Known This short gully climbs to the plateau of Muckish from the back right of the excavated platform near the summit of Muckish. OK when banked up, as rock is very loose. Named after a hillwalker who got stuck on it! View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
10 - Y Gully
Length: 150m Not Known This gully starts up a rock step just right of the ramp on the miners track. It soon forks, and both options provide an enjoyable Gr1 outing (the right being probably better) and an atmospheric exit onto the plateau in the right conditions. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
11 - The Funnel
III Length: 100m Dennis Golden, Paula Turley, Alan Tees 29/01/84 The chimney in the northern amphitheatre of Muckish, just right of the miners track. A gully leads to the narrow loose chimney, which opens out above. Turn a slab on the left? Map ref 001387, Approx grade 3? View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
12 - Alzheimer's
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III Length: 250m K McGee, D Millar. 24/12/10 Climb up the frozen stream at the start of the miners path. At the top of this follow the right hand gully(the ridge and miner path steps are kept on the left). Climb a series of iced up chimneys to get through the 3 rock bands. Climb the snow slope to the middle of the wall between the Funnel and Gully of the Gods. Climb up the centre of the 5m wall on small holds and poor protection. Take the obvious line of weakness through the next section and then climb a short steep corner to a good belay. Traverse right into Gully of the Gods, up another short ice step and move right again to the base of a small ice fall(10m). Climb this and continue to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
13 - Blue Steel
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III Length: 130m K McGee, P Tinney 9/01/11 This route climbs the ridge to the left of Gully of the Gods. Start on the lowest rock step to the left of the gully. Climb the arete to a good belay below the large pinnacle. Climb the pinnacle on the right edge on good holds but poor protection to gain a stance in the little cove. Climb up and step left at the top to regain the ridge. Continue up the ridge to the top climbing all the rock walls. The second last wall is steep but well protected. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
14 - Gully of the Gods. (Muckish)
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I Length: 130m P. Tinney, K McGee Dec 2009 Climb the superb gully starting 20m to right of "The Funnel." Climb the gully and taking the right fork at the Island mid height. Perfect atmospheric Grade 1 snow gully with a micro steepness through a slight constriction at half height, easily passable single axed. :-) View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
15 - M.I.A
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IV Length: 130m K McGee, P Tinney 9/01/11 A good climb offering superb technical climbing through the rock bands but unfortunately contains lots of easy ground. Starts a few metres to the right of Gully of the Gods. Climb the overhang to gain the ledge. Move slighty right and climb the steep corner. Continue over easier ground and belay at the large block. Climb up the next wall(poorly protected) to reach more easy ground. Climb up a short slab to gain a stance below an overhang with two parallel cracks. Climb this, using a small chockstone in the right crack to make life easier for yourself. Continue to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
16 - Divided Loyalties
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III Length: 130m K McGee, P Tinney 5/12/10 To the right of Gully of the Gods is an obvious line falling over a number of rock bands on the leftside of a corner. Climb the first step(mixed) to gain thicker ice and follow this to the top of the rock bands(60m). Continue up the long snow slope to top(usually corniced). View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
17 - White Reverence
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I Length: 180m Iain Miller 05/03/10 At the far right of main face immediately to the right of the big chunky tower, start at the 2nd gully to the right of the tower. Climb this gully to a very short steepening and continue up the centre of the pristine uniform snow slope above to the summit plateau with a huge feeling of "Big Air!" View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
