Editor: Malin Head (First Headland) | |
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Crag Profile: Malin Head (First Headland) |
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Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes |
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Directions: From the Car Park head on the path towards Hell's Hole. This is a small headland very visible from the carpark and easily identified by its Cross on its summit. Most of the climbs are really pleasant airy scrambles in an awesome setting with very little protection available. In dry weather there is excellent friction. However, some of the rock surrounding the headland is covered with a black Lichen which becomes very slippery and dangerous when it gets damp. Not recommended after rain. OS Grid Reference: Click here to view location in Google Maps |
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1 - Topo of First Headland
D -Length: 20m Columba McLaughlin May 2013 Climbs / Scrambles are listed from North to South looking seaward View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
2 - Zig Zag
D -Length: 20m Columba McLaughlin May 2013 A scramble on the north side of the headland. Useful as a marker and
as an ascent or descent route. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
3 - The Bulge
VD -Length: 20m Columba McLaughlin June 2014 About 5 metres right of Zig Zag. Follow the obvious fault line. Good
protection (Big Nut and Sling) just above the bulge. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
4 - The Gully
D -Length: 20m Columba McLaughlin June 2014 About 5 metres right of The Bulge there is an obvious groove. Follow
this. Avoid in wet or damp conditions. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
5 - The Edge
D -Length: 20m Columba McLaughlin June 2014 Start as for The Gully until you are able to step rightwards onto
the Edge / Arete and follow this to summit. Steep, but good friction,
in the final 2 metres. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
6 - Over the Top
Length: 15m Columba McLaughlin June 2014 Gain the col between the First Headland and its western neighbour on
the seaward side. This takes a line a few metres to the right of The
Edge. The final 2 metres are steep and airy but good friction. Choice
of escapes to the summit are available. As no obvious gear placements,
it would be best avoided in wet conditions. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
7 - Fionnuala's Route
D -Length: 15m Columba McLaughlin, Fionnuala McLaughlin, Grainne McLaughlin May 2013 Easily scramble up the obvious crack in the centre of the crag. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
8 - Grainne's Route
D -Length: 15m Grainne McLaughlin, Fionnuala McLaughlin and Columba McLaughlin May 2013 About 3 metres right of Fionnuala's Route. Easily scramble up slabs
with good friction. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
9 - Tarantula
VD -Length: 20m Columba McLaughlin July 2014 Start about 5 metres inside the zawn on the south side of the crag at
a point below the summit line. So called because of the number of webs
and spiders met on the way up. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
10 - Sand Jumper
D -Length: 20m Columba McLaughlin July 2014 This route is facing opposite Tarantula and climbs the South East
corner of the crag on the seaward side. Easy climbing with plenty of
holds and gear if needed. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
11 - Freebird
D -Length: 30m Columba McLaughlin, Fionnuala McLaughlin, Grainne McLaughlin June 2013 A very pleasant slanting climb / scramble up a very obvious fault line
in the northern wall of the Rock Rib. Its base is almost parallel with
the start of Tarantula. Not recommended in wet or damp conditions as
it can become dangerously slippy. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
12 - Fionnuala's Ledge
D -Length: 20m Columba McLaughlin, Fionnuala McLaughlin, Grainne McLaughlin June 2013 On the Northern Wall across the zawn from the First Headland crag,
start about 8 metres to the right of Freebird. Short difficult pitch
at the start to gain the ledge. Up the ledge and then scramble up the
arete above. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
13 - Grainne's Ledge
D -Length: 30m Columba McLaughlin, Grainne McLaughlin, Fionnuala McLaughlin June 2013 Start about 5 metres to the right of Fionnuala's Ledge. Easily move
up to a corner and then up the steep ledge above. An excellent ascent
or descent route. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||