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Editor: Bingorm East (Lough Barra)

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Crag Profile: Bingorm East (Lough Barra)

Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes

Directions: The large, mainly heavily vegetated,north east facing crag forming the right shoulder of the long Bingorm spur.

OS Grid Reference: B940145

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d01 - Risotto
VD
Length: 45m
E.Gallagher,n.Rothery, S.Farrell,N.Brown 24/-6/60
This route lies on the series of white slabs on the extreme left of the crag, starting about 100m below the large white slab high up on the buttress. Start at the bottom left and traverse diagonally up and right to the top of the slab at 18m. Continue up and right for another 18m to vegetation. Move right onto ramp leading back left to mantelshelf, vegetation and finish.
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d02 - Sabotage
HS
Length: 150m
B.Healey, F.Winder 17/04/60
On the left side of the main crag, the rock starts in two sections split by a shallow gully, joining above to form a white slab running a quarter of the way up the cliff. The route takes the left hand slab until it widens above a few patches of vegetation. Move up and then ripht along a smooth shelf below a wall. Surmount the wall by good but small holds to the left. Continue up slabs and ledges to the top
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d03 - Balor
VS
Length: 216m
H.Drasdo, F.Winder(Alt.leads)23/08/55
To the right of Sabotage, the cliff, as seen from the right, is split by a groove running in three sections to the final wall. The route starts about 30m to the left of the groove. 1) 38m A band of vegetation runs from bottom left to top right of the slab, finishing just left of the groove. 2) 21 m Move diagonally left on thin line of vegetation and up to foot of wall. 3) 24m Walk right along ledge to undercut groove with tree. 4) 9m Pull up into groove and up to tree. 5) 12m Move left onto edge of rib. Up and cross groove to vegetation on right. 6) 18m Move right to end of vegetation ano continue delicately onto slab. Climb up left to cross vegetation and up another slab reaching corner below next wall. 7) 27m Traverse right and ascend slab to stance at 9m at bottom of third groove. Climb corner to near top and move left onto ledge. 8) 16m Move diagonally right and up to perched block - the Balor. 9) 24m Continue to traverse right. At 6m move up to obvious flake. Diagonally right to red pockled slab, then up on vegetation. 10) 27m Pull up, ascend groove and climb diagonally right on easier rocks to belay
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d04 - Toraigh
VS 4c
Length: 129m
P O'Halpin, E Healey (Alt leads) and S Rothery P O'Leary (2 parties) (5/6/65)
On the centre of the main face is a bright green patch set under the upper overhangs. Below this the diedre forming the beginning of the second pitch is seen to be the exit line from the lower overhangs. Start at an incut section of the lower slabs below and slightly to the right of the diedre. 1) 21 m Climb the slab to trees under the overhang. 2) 21 m (4a)Start up corner of diedre, moving left and then back right to exit over loose rock onto ledge Traverse 6m right to belay. 3) 15m(4c) Climb diagonally left across exposed slab and up groove in centre of slab. 4) 24m(4b) Take a line over ledges and up over overhanging corner to gain the prominent bright green patch of ivy. 5) 24m(4b) Traverse left to rib on skyline, surmount nose, gain ledge and up to detached block. Continue up ledges and move right about 9m to belav. 6) 24m Traverse right to first break upwards and to left. Scramble to top.
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d05 - Intermural
VD
Length: 10m
B.Wright, D.Helliwell 13/10/56
On Crockbrack, a small but cleanish outcrop across the valley east of the main Bingorm group, and north of the Lough Barra Rd. This route takes a large chimney on the left of the buttress formed by a huge toppled block.
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d06 - Intercession
S
Length: 10m
D.Helliwell, B.Wright 13/10/56
The deep crack curving up from right to left, beneath an overhanging wall to the right of Intermural.
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d07 - Interlude
VD
Length: 10m
B.Wright, D.Helliwell 13/10/56
The prominent rightward facing corner on the right, with ashort ramp leading in from the right. Good climbing.
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d08 - Intermittent
VD
Length: 10m
D.Helliwell, B.Wright 13/10/56
The right edge on the slab on the right hand side of the buttress. The route can be connected with lower slabs to give a rather artificial route of up to 40m in length.
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