Route Number: 303

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Balor

Location: Bingorm East (Lough Barra)
Grade: VS  
Length: 216m
First ascent: H.Drasdo, F.Winder(Alt.leads)23/08/55
Route Description:
To the right of Sabotage, the cliff, as seen from the right, is split by a groove running in three sections to the final wall. The route starts about 30m to the left of the groove. 1) 38m A band of vegetation runs from bottom left to top right of the slab, finishing just left of the groove. 2) 21 m Move diagonally left on thin line of vegetation and up to foot of wall. 3) 24m Walk right along ledge to undercut groove with tree. 4) 9m Pull up into groove and up to tree. 5) 12m Move left onto edge of rib. Up and cross groove to vegetation on right. 6) 18m Move right to end of vegetation ano continue delicately onto slab. Climb up left to cross vegetation and up another slab reaching corner below next wall. 7) 27m Traverse right and ascend slab to stance at 9m at bottom of third groove. Climb corner to near top and move left onto ledge. 8) 16m Move diagonally right and up to perched block - the Balor. 9) 24m Continue to traverse right. At 6m move up to obvious flake. Diagonally right to red pockled slab, then up on vegetation. 10) 27m Pull up, ascend groove and climb diagonally right on easier rocks to belay

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