Name: Midsummer trip
Start: 2024-06-21T00:00:00+00:00
End: 2024-06-23T23:59:59+00:00

Editor: Skelpoonagh Bay
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Crag Profile: Skelpoonagh Bay
Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes
Skelpoonagh - Topo by Chris McDaid
Directions: SW6 SKELPOONAGH BAY GR516857 This new area comprises of a series of zawns situated on the inconspicuous grassy headland between Glencolumbkille village and Glen Head. These zawns offer varied and excellent climbing each with its own character, and the routes tend to have a more serious feel than those at Malin Beg. Abseil stakes are in place where necessary. For the climber not yet moved into the extreme grade, these zawns will provide exciting and adventurous routes with a good selection up to HVS There is a lot of rock here for new routes. There is an independent youth hostel and campsite on the hill above the Folk Village, and a cafe in the village serves great pots of tea and lots of sticky buns during the tourist season. The descriptions of the Zawns and routes start at the Glen Head end. OS Grid Reference: G516857 Click here to view location in Google Maps

The routes to the left are on a black wall above the sea at the front of the zawn. The most prominent feature is a large right facing curving corner which stops at half height. The left side of this wall is defined by a long right-lacing corner with a quartz arête. Routes are reached by abseil from in situ stakes

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01 - Stella Artois HVS 4c Length: 16m Z. Wang, G. Greene, 02/04/10 This route is on the wall to the left (looking from the sea towards the crag) of the usual climbs of Zawn 1. It can be easily spotted by looking down and across from the top of Protection City.Scramble up some blocks until you reach the base of a small triangular cave/niche. Climb up the crack and bridge up through the niche until it is possible to escape out left onto good, but overhanging face holds. Block belay off a large boulder.Watch out for some loose rock prior to topping out, as a large mug-sized chunk was pulled out on the first ascent of this route, much to the detriment of a shiny 9.2mm single rope. Reassuringly expensive indeed. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
02 - Midges Down Your Diddies VD Length: 20m J Walls,E Walls,P Nolan From near the back of the zawn, climb ledges diagonally right to the base of the tapering left-facing corner. Climb a steep but juggy flake crack across the wall on the left to the top ,J Walls. E Walls, P Nolan (9/90) View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
03 - Pre-Flight Checks S 4a Length: 20m C. McDaid, I.Miller 10/05/08 As for "Midgies Down Your Diddies" climb the easy ledges and continue up the tapering left facing corner. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
04 - Sky Gamut S - Length: 25m J Walls,J Stephenson (9/90) Sky Gamut Below and to the right of the tapering corner mentioned above, two parallel cracks go up to meet the obvious broken diagonal ramp. This route takes the less steep left-hand crack. Follow the crack to broken ledges past a short vague corner/groove. Easy climbing up ledges above to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
05 - Chance Meeting VS 4c Length: 25m A Currans,R Allsop (9/90) The obvious thin crack 4m right of Sky Gamut and left of the wet streak. Difficulty increases with height, the crux being reaching the easy ledges near the top View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
06 - Protection City HVS 5a Length: 25m W Canning,C Wright (8/94) Same start as chance meeting for 6m, step right unto sloping ledge with thin diagonal crack (crux) Surmount this and onto top, trending right View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
07 - Niggera Fall HVS 5a Length: 30m W Canning,R.J.Starrs (08/94) Starts 1/2M right of wet streak ( to the right of Chance Meeting) Climb straight up on fine moves to a smal corner. Mantleshelf easily to Bulging Wall (Hard Move) right to finish. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
08 - Mujahadeen E2 5c Length: 35m R Allsop,A Currans,P Nolan Below the lower part of Kuwaiti is a ledge at 3m. Two parallel thin cracks run up to the side of the ledge, gain the ledge using the right hand crack, and step right to the thin flake crack; use this to reach the deep flake crack of Kuwaiti. Follow this leftwards to where it starts to become horizontal, near the top, below some bulging rock. Climb directly up bulging rock using a feint crack to reach a good finger slot (crux). Better holds will transport you to the top View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
09 - New Beginnings VS 4c Length: 35m A Currans,R Allsop (9/09) This route takes the obvious right- trending crack that cuts through the omnipresent Kuwaiti. Gain the ledge at 3m as for Mujahadeen and follow this route as far as the thin flake crack. Climb this crack with increasing steepness but good holds. Finish directly to the top up the left side of the block. Excellent climbing. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
10 - Deja vu VS 4b Length: 35m J Walls,P Nolan (9/90) Start at the beginning of the flake crack of Kuwaiti. Make a few moves along this until it is possible to gain the wall above at a thin flake crack. Climb this crack, and when it stops, climb directly up the wall above to reach the large sloping ledge. Move left to a diagonal overhang and layback around this and finish direct. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
11 - Kuwaiti Sheikhi Flakey HS 4b Length: 40m J O Dolan,C O Dolan (9/90) This route follows the by-now-famous right to left diagonal flake crack, starting under the overhanging prow and following it in a fine protection to where it ends near the wet streak. Every hold a jug A very good route. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
12 - Crunchie Bar Climb S - Length: 35m J Walls,R Allsop (9/90) Below the overhanging prow is a large sloping ledge with large blocks on it. Gain the left-hand side by a series of thin flakes. Go up rightwards to the top the ledge and traverse diagonally left directly beneath the prow to reach the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route

The following routes are on the opposite side of the zawn.

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13 - Murden in Eden HVS 5a Length: 12m W Canning,J Starrs The following routes are on the opposite side of the zawn. On the first bulging section of rock on the right after decending the gully is a deep crack at about half height with a fine quartz vein on the right. Gain the crack with strenuous moves and up left to the top View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
14 - The Bog Men E1 5b Length: 12m W Canning (20/07/91) 3m left of murder in Eden, around the corner, Surmount overhang to gain right facing chimney. Awkward moves right and up to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
15 - Half Brick S - Length: 15m M Mc Guigan,W Canning (08/93) 10m left of the Bog Men, climb slabby rock to right facing corner. Climb corner to top View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
16 - Two Half Bricks S - Length: 15m J Starrs R Cunningham (08/93) 3m left of Half Brick up slabby area to shallow corner which is climbed to the top View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
17 - Two Plates HS 4b Length: 15m C. McDaid, I. Miller 10/05/08 10mters left of "Two Half Bricks" and starting at the base of the smooth walled groove, Climb the right trending crack line to the hollow sounding block and continue to the top up the left trending crack. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route

Further down towards the sea where the crag rises in height, in the upper half of the crag there is a very obvious left facing corner.

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18 - Druids VS 5a Length: 35m I. Miller, C. McDaid 10/05/08 Further down towards the sea where the crag rises in height, in the upper half of the crag there is a very obvious left facing corner. This route starts directly below this corner.Pitch 1, 4B 25mtr, Climb the right trending crack line to the bottom of the smooth granite rock band and pad up to the top of the slabby granite.Pitch 2, 5a 10mtr, Climb the steep left facing corner.As an easier alternative 2nd pitch climb the cracked groove 8 mtrs to the left of the corner @ 4a and an overall grade of HS. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route

Zawn 2 Climbing here is in marked contrast to the last routes with the climbs around the huge cave giving tremendous exposure and great climbing. The first routes are on the face to the left of the cave.

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19 - Nomads VD Length: 25m P Nolan (09/90) On the face to the left of the cave. Nomads Follow the quartz ribbon directly up the left arete, going left at the overhang. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
20 - Daydream VD - Length: 25m J Stephenson,A Curran (9/90) Follow the left arete to the overhang and then move right to the obvious wide crack, which is followed to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
21 - Paradies in the Picture-house * * VS 4c Length: 30m J Stephenson A Curran (9/90) A diagonal line up the face left of the cave giving mainly easy but exposed climbing. Most difficult at the start and finish. Gain the bottom of the left arete and foot-traverse right along the obvious horizontal break. Make a tricky move up the thin crack to the large sloping ledge. From the ledge traverse right along horizontal breaks until a crack leads up to the quartz arete. Up the left side of the quartz to the overhanging nose and jam round this in a spectacular position. A phantasmagoric route. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
22 - Fruit Palace * * * HVS 4c Length: 40m A Currans,P Noland (alt. leads) (9/90) Ã¢â‚¬Å“A truly wild rock trip giving the most mind-blowing position for a route of its grade to be found anywhere in the countryÃ¢â‚¬Å“. We expect great things indeed .1) Follow Paradise to the horizontal breaks, but instead of climbing up to the quartz, continue traversing right to the arete. Belay here after changing your underpants. Bring your second up before changing your mind. 2) Make a short traverse across the overhanging wall to gain the base of the hanging corner above the left side of the face. Climb the corner with continued interest, taking time to savour your surroundings. Probably the finest route that side of Killybegs. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
23 - Atlantic Bound * E2 5a Length: 40m W Canning,A. N. Other Same first pitch as the Fruit Palace, leave the security of the corner belay and traverse right into a niche, a delicate move around the quartz leads to a faint crack and straight to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route

The next three routes are on the other side of the zawn and are approachad by an easy sea level traverse from the front of the zawn or by a short abseil from the ramp above Pioneers and Alcoholics

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24 - Pioneers and Alcoholics VS 4b Length: 30m P Nolan, J Walls (9/90) The next three routes are on the other side of the zawn and are approachad by an easy sea level traverse from the front of the zawn or by a short abseil from the ramp above Pioneers and Alcoholics This route takes the corner formed by the right side of the cave and the zawn wall. Another adventurous outing giving reasonable climbing though what looks from below to be not so reasonable territory. Start on the huge flat topped boulder on the right side of the cave mouth. Climb directly up from the platform, steeply at first until it is possible to step left onto the diagonal hanging Slab. Move across left to the end of the slab,then up steeply until progress is barred by overhangs. From here ,make a traverse right to easier ground. A short flake crack above leads to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
25 - Billy Mc Grew the Sailor S - Length: 20m R Allsop,J Walls (9/90) This route takes the obvious left to right diagonal in the zawn wall right of the cave, to the left of the large concave recess. Finish straight up at the end of the crack. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
26 - Billy Mcgrew the Sailor (The Bawbag Finish) * * HVS 5a Length: 35m C. McDaid, I. Miller 10/05/08 Climb Billy Mcgrew till crack peters out, traverse hard right through quartzite band on crimps for 4 mtr until a couple of moves up gains another left to right trending crack. Follow to top. Mucho exposure View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
27 - That's the Shot VS 4c Length: 20m R Allsop,J Walls (9/90) A route through the concave recess of Billy Mc Grew. Climb up the left side of the recess until the rock starts to overhang. Make a difficult traverse right to a protruding block, where a horizontal crack leaves the right side of the recess. Make a few moves along this crack until another diagonal crack leads back left to the main crack that leaves the top of the recess and follow this to the top View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route

Zawn 3 Onwards about 50m is Zawn 3 There is a free standing fin of rock wilh a number of short crack lines. The routes described are accessed by abseil down a moderately angled North facing corner close to the end of the headland separating Zawns 3 and 4.

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28 - Cold Turkey D Length: 20m M.McGuigan, K.Monaghan Follows the abseil corner. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
29 - Left Winger. S 4a Length: 20m Alan Tees, Geoff Thomas 7/5/12 Half way up the ab corner, branch left, where a few problematic moves lead to an easy angled crack and belay. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
30 - Spreadeagled! HS 4b Length: 20m Keith and Sandra Monaghan 7/5/12 At bottom of abseil, climb chimney on left little protection and no handholds unto past crux at 6m with no handholds, smear bridge over 2 steps, on superb rock, unto easier ground, at top finish easily up ramp on right. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
31 - Tribute to the Bears S 4a Length: 20m Sandra Kennedy and Keith Monaghan 7/5/12 3m right from bottom of abb. Climb slab to underneath large overhang. Climb high under overhand on sound flake and the stretch back left to gain good foothold on to large rock to gain upper slab. Finish easily directlyto top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
32 - SeaEagled, S 4a Length: 20m Keith and Sandra Monaghan 7/5/12 Low tide only. Work your way down right from bottom of abb onto large barnacle covered blocks. Traverse back left 5m to crack with good holds, Climb 5m exiting onto ramp moving up left. From ramp take 1st corner on right (crux) with undercut holds to top of chimney on Spreadeagled. Quite a bit of drag so may need to bring second up before finishing as for Spreadeagled. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route

After a longer walk (400m) Zawn 4 is attained Here one can choose between pleasant low-grade slab climbs on the right or more demanding crack and groove lines above the sea on the left. The massive slab gets any sun that is going, this and its low angle makes it perfect for cold beginners. The bottom of the routes is reached by a gully at the back of the zawn

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33 - Keep Off the Grass HS - Length: 30m Climbfest May 2009 Stephen Read, Emma Ross Start at the bottom corner of the slab at the right-hand edge of zawn four. Take a diagonal traverses above the grassy verge to a distinct corner beneath a series of large blocks. Bridge up through the corner and follow the left hand edge of the blocks to finish. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
34 - Lee Shore HS Length: 40m I Rea, M. Rea(4/91) To find this, go to the base of the descent gully where a huge block leans against the crag. 3 metres left of this is an obvious blocky niche which you climb up by the left-hand side and over a bulge via the obvious crux. Follow a fault line up left to cross Bran Flakes and go into a vague depression (sounds fun!). Having got over this depression, you can finish straight up via a feint corner. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
35 - Heathen VS 4c Length: 40m I Rea, M Rea (4/91) Two metres left of Lee Shore, you'll find a blocky overhang 3m above your head. Gain the right hand side or this using a left-facing flake/edge. Go up the steep little wall and cross Lee Shore and follow the crack until it is possible to step left to below a quartz intrusion. Finish straight up and left of the quartz. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
36 - Letting Go S - Length: 50m I Rea, M Rea (4/91) Start at the left edge of the afore-mentioned huge block at the descent gully and climb up the fault until you're level with a grassy ledge on the right. Now follow the obvious horizontal fault which runs across the whole crag to the quart/ intrusion near the seaward edge. Climb up above the quartz where you'll find a belay on the grass just below the blocky jumble. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
37 - Bran Flakes D - Length: 30m P Nolan (9/90) The obvious left to right diagonal line starting behind the huge triangular pillar flake lying against the middle of the slab. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
38 - First Born D - Length: 30m J Walls, J Stephenson (9/90) A direct line up the thin crack above the flake. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
39 - Wastering VS 4c Length: 40m I Rea,M Rea (4/91) Start 2m left of Bran Flakes below the bulging wall, and climb up into the vague scoop. Step up left and then go straight up to below the largest overhang. Step right, and then immediately up to a horizontal break. From here move left to another niche and a quartz knob. Go right a few more feet and then straight up the wall. The start is bold, but the crux is near the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
40 - Sea Breezes HS - Length: 40m I Rea,M Rea (4/91) Start as for Westering but move out right from the scoop. Continue up the thin cracks from here, past a break, until you reach First Born Cross over this and follow the right-trending crack to a vertical fault which is followed to the car park. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
41 - Baltic Breeze, Sev. S 4a Length: 30m Anthony Feeney, PJ Monaghan. 7/5/12 Start a couple of metres right of “Heads Together” and follow the obvious fault line leading just left of the prominent left facing roofs at half height. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
42 - Heads Togeather VD - Length: 30m A Mc Aloon, J Walls (9/90) Start a few metres left of the flake. Climb diagonally leftwards beneath small stepped overhangs and straight up to finish. A superb route, one of the best in the country. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
43 - Mach 4, HS 4b Length: 30m Alan Tees, Geoff Thomas. 6/5/12 From the LH edge of the big flake, traverse out left on quartz veins to the edge of a corner (Aquaguldering) and climb the vertical band of razor blade rock. This is similar to “Heads Together” but steeper. After a few moves the difficulties ease, and continue up the rock band to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
44 - Aquaguldering, S 4a Length: 30m Alan Tees, Valli Schafer (i), and Martin McGuigan, Keith Monaghan (ii) 6/5/12 Start at the left (seaward) base of the flake, and climb the corner on good side pulls/ flakes. This was first climbed by (i) traversing in from the right (as per Mach 4), then (ii) direct from the bottom. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
45 - Climbfest Corner D - Length: 25m Alan Tees, Valli Schafer 6/5/12 The next big corner seaward, just beyond some overhangs, branching off right beyond the steep bit to avoid boredom! View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
46 - Escapapologist, D - Length: 25m Alan Tees, Valli Schafer 6/5/12 Seaward of the slab left of Climbfest Corner, is a chimney to half height. Ab into it, and, if (like us) you can’t get out again, follow a clean groove rightwards onto the slab, the centre of which is climbed on grippy rock to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
47 - The Mermaid, HS 4a Length: 25m Alan Tees, Valli Schafer 6/5/12 Beyond the chimney the slabs taper into an arête as they tumble to the surf. Descent is by abseil to a small ledge (not possible at high tide). Start up on the stepped arête, move right, and gain a big ledge. From here a pristine diedre leads to an airy ramp, for which you will need small wires, and a delicate move to gain the pockled upper wall, and belay. Nice! View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
48 - Alfieâ€™s Corner D - Length: 25m Alfie Conn, Geoff Thomas. 6/5/12 Next big corner, and close to the end of the headland. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
49 - Smear Test S 4a Length: 20m Anthony Feeney, PJ Monaghan. 7/5/12 At the end of the promontory, and just on the Bay 4 side of it, is a chute running down to the sea. Descend by Abseil, and re-ascend up the right hand diedre on friction and wires mostly! View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
50 - Upshoot and left up Quartzleghorn S 3c Length: 25m Martin McGuigan, Sandra Kennedy, 7/5/12 Ab down the chute, and follow the chimney etc just left of ‘Smear Test’. Interesting! Take the quartz exit, left at the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
51 - Man Flu, HVS 5a Length: 20m Geoff Thomas, Alan Tees, 7/5/12 Ab steeply down off the end of the promontory (slightly on the North side) into a ‘V’ channel. Climb the deep cracks on the left at the back to an edge, step across, and pull up onto a quartzy ledge. Descend to the right, above the overhangs, and make a couple of thin moves to gain a deep’ right to left’ crack in the wall above. Climb this on steep but positive holds. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
52 - Sniffle Group S 4a Length: 20m Alan Tees, Geoff Thomas.7/5/12 Start as for ‘Man Flu’ to the quartzy ledge, but traverse left around the corner into Bay 3, to the first set of jugs, which are climbed pleasantly to the stash of sodden tissues! View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route

The following routes are on the other side of the zawn

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53 - Out of the Blue HS 4b Length: 25m P Nolan,A Currans,A Mc Aloon (9/90) Three metres right of the main corner on the inland side of the wall. Abseil down to good ledges below a bottomless v-groove. Bridge up the v-groove crack and follow this to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
54 - Cheekbone City HVS 5a Length: 25m P Nolan,A Currans (9/90) Three metres right of Out Of the Blue, the route follows a long thin crack which starts steeply and peters out at a right-facing corner where the rock bulges Climb up,and from the left, gain a good foothold in the steep crack. Make a difficult move up to gain the less steep crack above and follow this to the short corner. Move up this with increasing difficulty until forced out left onto the rib (avoiding a loose down -pointing spike above). Move up, then pull round right and up to finish. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
55 - Rockmail HVS 5a Length: 25m A Currans,P Nolan,A Mc Aloon (9/90) This route takes the curving corner in the centre of the wall, obvious from the opposite side of the zawn. Abseil to a good stance at the bottom of the corner. Climb the superb corner on good holds and bridging. At its top traverse left across a sloping ledge to the bottom of a leaning groove and climb this with difficulty. Finish leftwards at the top to avoid loose rock. Good memorable climbing. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
56 - Tall Ships VS 4c Length: 20m W Canning,J Starrs,D Coyle (20/07/09) Starts from the boulder field to the left of the above in a dark corner with a Perched Block at 15m 1/ Climb to grassy terrace and belay 2/ Continue on the obvious line of weakness to finish on corner to the right View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
57 - Let it Be HVS 5a Length: 45m W Canning,J Starrs, (Aug 99) Pitch one as for Tall Ships, traverse left to Quartz corner and trend right up towards two summit corners taking the right hand one. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
58 - Askart VS 4c Length: 40m W Canning, J Starrs (Aug 99) As above only taking the left hand summit corner. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
59 - The Three Amigos VS 4b Length: 40m W Canning,J Starrs,D Coyle (Aug 99) Pitch 1 as for Tall Ships. Traverse left into quartz corner, but continue left towards grassy platform at 34 height, where sheltered rock and deep V groove leads to exit on left of roof View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route

Zawn 5 Approx 100m beyond zawn 4 walking towards Glencolmcille the following routes are located at the sea ward tip of the north facing wall. Although shorter this wall provides the best quality rock in Skelpoonagh, so far. Access is by easily descending to sea level down the sea ward face of the peninsula separating zawns 5 and 6.

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60 - Skelp Arete HS 4b Length: 15m I. Miller, D. O'Connor, C. Gleeson 27/05/12 Immediately to the right of the steep open book corner, "Kosua Corner," climb the sharp knife edge arete. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
61 - Kosua Corner * * HS 4b Length: 15m S. Read, I. Miller, C. Gleeson, E. Ross 27/05/12 The steep open book corner View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
62 - Sea Bait HS - Length: 15m S. Read, E. Ross, C. Gleeson 27/05/12 Climb the arete to the left of "Kosua Coprner," climb to the flake on the right of "Giggling Crack," finishing up a thin gearless crack to the left. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
63 - Giggling Crack HS 4b Length: 15m I. Miller, D O'Connor, C. Gleeson 27/05/12 Climb the stepped crack 2m to the right of "Book of Fate" corner. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
64 - Book of Fate * S 4a Length: 15m D O'Connor, I. Miller, C. Gleeson 27/05/12 Climb the second Open Book Corner in from the sea. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
65 - Jungle Sea * VS 4c Length: 15m S. Read, I. Miller 27/05/12 The arete to the left of "Book of Fate," pull up on 2 good jugs to an easier slab and up the final steep step to finish. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route