Editor: Eglish (Ceasefire Wall) | |
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Crag Profile: Eglish (Ceasefire Wall) |
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Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes |
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Directions: Continue past the "Gatepost" until you come to a gully with a wall on the right, rising to its greatest height as it turns into the gully. OS Grid Reference: G952882 Click here to view location in Google Maps |
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1 - Unequivocal Ceasefire Two
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S 4aLength: 20m B Johnston, M Pailing (10/6/97) Continuing past the Gatepost until you come to a grassy gully with a 20m wall on the right. The climb starts at a wet triangular alcove and continues up through scoop to overhang and right, past vegetation to notch in skyline.
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10 - Lepor Knuckles
Length: 7m J Frazer, S Hamilton, A Millar (15/5/00) | |||
2 - Condition of the System
Length: 20m S Hamilton (14/5/00) Short overhung groove on the left of Ceasefire wall as it turns the corner up the gully, 1-2 metres right of Decommission. The upper reaches of both routes are probably shared.
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3 - D.Commission
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S 4aLength: 20m D Millar M Pailing (10/6/97) 5m right of'Unequivocal Ceasefire II'. Takes the line up the arete to the vegetation, then move right and follow cracks to ledge and finishing belay point.
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4 - Farewell to my Arms
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E3 5cLength: 12m A Millar R Moore (4/5/00) A fine climb up the obvious steep left trending crack on the left side of ceasefire wall. After a few easier moves up the left side of the obvious small pedestal, commit yourself strenuously leftwards under the crack and struggle upwards on consistently poor jams but with brilliant friend placements till the jams improve towards the top.
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5 - Kneecapped
Length: 10m R Moore, S Hamilton (18/4/99) Moving right from 'Unequivocal Ceasefire II', around the corner, there are huge leftward facing flakes at three-quarters height. About 3m left of this, locate a line of steep holds (including a thread) on a bulge in the wall. Strenuous climbing leads to ledge (and an awkward mantleshelf) and up a crack to the top.
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6 - Paradign Shift
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HVS 5aLength: 15m R Moore, A Millar (14/5/00)
Takes the obvious huge flakes in the middle of the wall. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
7 - Gold Crest
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VS 4cLength: 12m M McGuigan (13/11/99) Right of the above-mentioned huge flakes, is a deep Right trending crack on the upper half of the wall. This is accessed by steep climbing on jugs, move left, and follow the crack to the top (crux).
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8 - Trigger Finger
Length: 8m A Millar R Moore (l4/5/00) Climbs the lovely pink quartzy streak on the right side of ceasefire wall using ledge on the right. An easier start up the groove just right again is possible. A short but worthwhile climb on good solid rock.
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9 - Misty Mountain Hop
Length: 8m J Frazer, S Hamilton (14/5/00) Takes the groove right of gully/groove on right side of ceasefire wall. A great little hop up on to a good foot hold leading into a nice lay-backing crack. An awkward move left up and into the chimney to good holds and gear. Move on up to the Elephant's bum lay-backing the crack and using good footholds on the right, mantling up to the top.
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1b - Iris Robinson
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S 4aLength: 20m Alan Tees, Brian Johnston, Bill Magowan 1/06/10 Two metres right of "Unequivocal Ceasefire" climb (unsurprisingly) rightward trending holds up the middle of the wall, until, just less than half way, you come to the crutcx. A bold move up and rightward should do the business. Continue dilightfully directly up, using a couple of lovely jugs, en route. Iris is a star, maybe two, but not everybody in the country will agree with that! View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route |