Name: Glencolmcille Climbfest
Start: 2025-05-02T08:00:00+00:00
End: 2025-05-05T17:00:00+00:00

Editor: Eglish (Middle Easter Wall)
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Crag Profile: Eglish (Middle Easter Wall)
Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes
Middle Easter Wall, Eglish. - A Scallop Fever. B Hay Black Crack. C Throttle. D Dire Straights. E Out of Wall Hole. F Basecamp Corner. G Rasputin's Fingers. H Jonathan Guard. I Dagger Variant. J Mayfly.
Directions: This wall is to the right of Easter Wall (at the back of the Eglish Valley), split by a gully, with a prominent corner on its left(Campsite Corner). OS Grid Reference: G953889 Click here to view location in Google Maps
01 - Campsite Corner VD - Length: 15m A Tees, M Pailing (10/6/97) The prominent right-angled corner at the left-hand side of Middle Easter Crag. Climb and bridge up on good clean holds until you reach the ledge. Continue straight up from back of ledge. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
02 - Exit Stage Left * VS 4c Length: 20m J. Frazer A. Millar 13/5/Ol Takes the ramps on the wall right of `Basecamp corner' but moves left to first ledge on `Basecamp corner'. Continue up to a vegetated ledge and then awkwardly up final corner stepping left to ledge then up precarious slab on the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
03 - Rasputin's Fingers * * E2 5c Length: 20m A. Millar S. Hamilton 20/5/01 Climbs the wall right of Basecamp corner. Start at the right arete and move up and left over a series of ledges (As for Exit Stage Left) to fine overhanging crack Climb crack with increasing difficulty until a brilliant hard pull onto the slab gains the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
04 - Mayfly * HS 4a Length: 17m B Johnston, M Pailing (i0/6/97) Go to the lowest point in the crag, right of the grassy gully, (about 15m right of'Basecamp Corner'). Climb the steep vertical crack, with some heather in it, up to the overlap. Move right around overlap on to the ramp, across easier ground to the left, and up the steep corner to finish on top of slabs. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
05 - Jonathan Guard * VS 4c Length: 20m A. Millar S. Hamilton 20/5/O1 Follows line up the red slab 15M up the gully from Mayfly. A few metres right of the corner at the top of the gully is a vague groove. Start steeply up to gain flakes on left, make an awkward move up unto slab. Continue straight up the narrowing slab, avoiding ledge on the right, to a slight steepening and slabby confidence move to finish. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
06 - Heather Bailey HS - Length: 22m A. Millar S. Hamilton 23/5/O1 Five metres down the gully from Jonathan Guard is an obvious crack leading onto a slab enclosed on the left and above by steeper rock. Climb the crack and escape right up around corner via nice situation on the arete. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
07 - Dagger Variant * HVS 5a Length: 25m A. Millar S. Hamilton 20/5/O1 Start as for Mayfly. Once the easier ground around the corner is reached step left to arete and using finger crack move awkwardly up. Follow right trending seam/groove to small but beautiful final stab until a step left onto a ledge can be made. Up to good belay. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
08 - Dire straights HVS 5a Length: 14m B Johnston, D Millar (10/6/97) On the vertical wall 8m left of `Basecamp Corner'. There are two discontinuous left trending cracks. One above the other. Starting on the left, Step up via lay away hold and foothold to reach right to bottom of lower crack. Move up this until the upper crack can be reached, up this and then short groove to top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
09 - Out of Wall Hole HVS 5b Length: 10m A. Millar S. Hamilton 23/5/01- Takes the vertical cracks right of'Dire Straights'. Start as for'Dire Straights' but traverse right till it is possible to pull up into cracks. Follow these to top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
10 - Throttle HS - Length: 14m D Millar B Johnston (10/6/97) 4m left of `Dire Straights'. Climb the series of cracks and ledges to the end of the balcony above. Move right and up to finish. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
11 - Hay Black Crack * E1 5c Length: 9m A. Millar S. Hamilton 25/5/Ol Five metres left of Throttle is an obvious clean layback feature beginning at a ledge at two metres. Climb this to top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
12 - Scallop Fever S 4a Length: 10m 8 Johnston, M Pailing (10/6/97) 10m to the left of 'Throttle'. Vertical cracks and ledges lead to short finishing layback section. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
13 - A Bridge Too Far HS - Length: 17m B Johnston, M Pailing (10//6/97) -------- 80-100m right of `Basecamp Corner' is an alcove. Starting in the centre of the alcove. Bridge up steep rock, move left at 2/3 height, and finish up vertical rock to good "pulpit" stance. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
- Midge Ridge VD 3c Length: 17m Alan Tees, Valli Schafer 22/08/11 A few metres left of "A Bridge Too Far" is a blunt arete with a big detached flake at the bottom, and obvious spikes above. Step off the flake and traverse left to avoid the first steep step, regaining the ridge above. An unmolested leader would climb the step direct, and this would make the route both better and harder! View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
- Midge Ridge VD 3c Length: 17m Alan Tees, Valli Schafer 22/08/11 A few metres left of "A Bridge Too Far" is a blunt arete with a big detached flake at the bottom, and obvious spikes above. Step off the flake and traverse left to avoid the first steep step, regaining the ridge above. An unmolested leader would climb the step direct, and this would make the route both better and harder! View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route