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Editor: Gola - Island Zawn

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Crag Profile: Gola - Island Zawn

Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes

Directions: The indent in the coastline level with the north end of Tor na mBallán (Tornamullane Island). It has a large cave at the back and climbing on both its walls. Incidentally, this cave is the other entrance to the ‘Cois Farraige’ cave at Twin Caves Buttress!

OS Grid Reference: B758273

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47 - Hugh's No 1
HVS 5a
Length: 25m
H.Sharkey, G.Moss, T.O'Neill 15 June ‘96

Access to the first three climbs is gained by scrambling down well to the north of the cave and scrambling back along a ledge system about 2m above the high water mark to a point about 10m left of the cave. Near the cave is the very obvious Cormy Corner.

Start below two short corners, one above the other, each topped by a good ledge. Climb the corners, the second of which provides the crux, move left and follow the deep crack to the top.


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48 - The Ancient Mariner
VS 4c
Length: 25m
G.Moss, T.O'Neill, H.Sharkey 15 June 1996
Start 2m right of above, below a ramp with a steep wall on its left. The ramp runs up the full height of the cliff, tapering as it does so and can be seen easily from the top of the western side of the zawn. Climb the ramp to the top.
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49 - Albatross
VS 4b
Length: 25m
T.O'Neill, H.Sharkey, G.Moss 15 June '96
Start 1.5m right of The Ancient Mariner below a crack line. Climb the crack on good holds, with a steepening near the top.
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50 - Cormy Corner
* * *
E2 5b
Length: 25m
P.Keane, J, Gilmore.
The obvious square-cut corner to the left of the cave. Abseil or scramble down to the base of the route at medium or low tide. Climb the corner by bridging and laybacking to an overhang. Move right under this and continue up an obvious groove. Strenuous and sustained. Belay on a big boulder.
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51. - (Martin's Route)
E2 5b
No length recorded
M.Daly, P.McGarrity 15 Sept '96

This is the dark north-facing wall right of the cave in Island Zawn. This wall is broken by an obvious left-trending crack (Climbed by W. Walshaw). To the left of this obvious crack, two smaller cracks split the wall from left to right. The rightmost of these is Super Scary Slash. Although a number of routes have been done in this area, we do not have descriptions for all of them. Abseil to ledges below the routes.

Start from the left-hand and lowest part of the ledge at low tide Climb the left-hand side of the wall to gain a ledge below the steep leftmost crack. Climb this crack and protect it with cunning and guile. Pull out onto the arête and climb the easy angled slab to the top.


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52. - Damp Paws
HVS 5b
No length recorded
J.Gillmor (Solo) June '96
To the left of Super Scary Slash the wall becomes more recessed with an overhanging corner, before the headwall becomes more vertical. Climb easily until fully beneath the overhanging corner to the left. A tricky move left gains the headwall and an easier finish.
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53. - Super Scary Slash
VS 4c
No length recorded
J.Gilmore (Solo) June ‘96
Climb the right most of the left to right trending cracks.
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