Colmcille Climbers

Editor: Malinbeg (North End)

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Crag Profile: Malinbeg (North End)

Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes

Malinbeg, North End - Neptunes Wall

Directions: The sea cliffs at Malin Beg are tremendously popular, providing a very attractive combination of good clean rock, easy access and generally better weather than elsewhere in the county. Routes are short, mainly in the lower grades and consequently a rather relaxed atmosphere prevails. The only longish routes (up to 40m) are on Duan Head but suffer from a band of loose rock running across the top and are thus rather more serious than most. Climbing is usually feasible throughout the year and midges are rare. Care is needed with tides and in high seas waves can break right over the crag. The normal approach is from Donegal town, along the N56 to Killybegs and then the R263 through Carrick (An Charraig) towards Glencolumcille (Glean Cholm Cille). As this is a Gaeltact area, most of the road signs show the Irish spelling of the towns and villages. Approx 5km from Carrick turn left towards Malin Beg and Malin More. At the Malin More crossroads turn left to arrive at the tiny village of Malin Beg. By continuing straight on the road you end at a small car park with access to the Silver Strand, a justifiably popular beach, but by turning right at the crossroads in the centre of the village you reach the tiny natural harbour. Continue past the last cottage on a rough track and park on the grassy cliff top. This area provides an excellent campsite but is often used by the local fishermen for drying and mending their nets, so care is needed. Continue up the track, passing the old watch-tower on your left, to arrive at the top of the crag, at the top of Narrow Zawn. The various sections of the crag are described from the right to the left looking out to sea. Duan Head is the large headland separating the harbour from the Silver Strand, on the left looking out to sea from the campsite. It is reached by a short walk along the grassy cliff top from the harbour. As well as the numerous climbs described there exists almost endless possibilities for sea level traversing at all grades, SW1a NORTH END The most northerly continuous section of the crag is the steep pocked wall lined with vertical grooves known as Neptune's Wall. The bottom of the wall is easily reached by scrambling down from the north side but the area is tidal. The first route described lies on a small island north of Neptune's Wall, reached by crossing a narrow channel at low tide.

OS Grid Reference: G490795