Editor: Malinbeg (Duan Head) | |
What would you like to do today? | |
| < | |
Crag Profile: Malinbeg (Duan Head) |
|||
Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes |
|||
Directions: Looking out to sea from the harbour there is a long rocky coastline culminating in Duan Head - the promontory separating the harbour and the Silver Strand. The initial rocky coastline is generally low, broken and in areas loose. Many short routes have been done but it is not thought worth recording exact details. The best potential of this section lies in sea level traverses, and bouldering here on a hot summers day can be very enjoyable. On Duan Head, the climbing is more serious. The routes are the longest to be found in the Malin Beg area but unfortunately marred by an area of poor rock at the top of the crag. Descent is made by an abseil from stakes (which will probably not be in place) to a large platform during low to mid tide. OS Grid Reference: G496795 Click here to view location in Google Maps |
|||
01 - Fialail
Length: 50m P Holmes, T Fogg (1982) Start: Route takes the obvious hanging ramp on the left wall of the zawn on the left-hand side of the crag.
1) 30m (5a) Up some blocks and make some awkward moves to gain the ramp. Climb this ramp until a few exposed layback moves lead to a belay ledge.
2) 20m Up the ledges for 3m. Traverse right and up on quartz holds. Straight up to the top on increasingly doubtful rock.
View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
02 - Man Dear
Length: 55m P Hall, T Fogg (21/6/81) Start: At the first obvious corner at far left of the wave cut platform next to the big overhang at high water mark.
1) 10m Climb the corner and exit to belay on the left. 2) 45m Up and trend left tot he bottom of a very steep corner. Left again to a ramp corner and up to very bad mud and rock to the top.
View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
03 - Phil Your Boots
Length: 50m T Fogg, P Hall (21/6/81) Start: At the obvious delta groove with overhangs above.
1) 42m Climb the ramp on the left edge of the delta, i.e., trending right. Move left up steeper ground to gain bigger ledges and belay after 15m
2) 8m Straight up to the top on loosening ground. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
04 - Tuam Na Farraige
Length: 50m T Fogg, P Hall (21.6.81) Start: On the right edge of the delta groove mentioned above.
1) 40m Trend right, then left to gain the overhang at the foot of the delta. Climb this and two more to gain a
groove. Move right to an easier groove and belay. 2) 10m Up left to join Phil Your Boots and finish. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
05 - Tritwo
Length: 55m K Quinn, T Fogg (29/7/81) Start: 6m right of Tuam Na Farraige.
1) 25m Up a thin crack in left of a corner. Climb to the overhangs and turn them to the left by a worrying move or two to gain a ledge. Rising traverse left to belay ledge.
2) 30m Up to a scoop then slightly left of a grass filled groove on friable rock to the top.
View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
06 - Spanish Frenzy
Length: 50m K.Quinn, T.Fogg (81) Start: At the right-hand side of the crag at the corner. 1) 40m Climb the corner finger crack, bridging at the steepest section (crux). Easier to belay on a ledge with a big spike.
2) 10m Rightish to the top on easy but loose ground.
View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||