Editor: Gola - Twin Cave Buttress Area | |
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Crag Profile: Gola - Twin Cave Buttress Area |
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Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes |
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Directions: This area covers the southeast facing walls beyond the Main Cliff area. The first two routes require an abseil to a wave washed ledge left of a large recess. Both routes climb the western wall of the recess, where there is a large overlap towards the seaward end. OS Grid Reference: B759272 Click here to view location in Google Maps |
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71 - The Cauldron Beneath
Length: 9m S.McMullan, R.Laffan 3 June 1996 Takes the crack to the left of the overlap. Start directly below the overlap, or else traverse in from the right, depending on how wet your feet are. Medium cams protect a single hard high step, which leads to huge happy holds View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
72 - Metric Tonn
HS 4aLength: 9m R.Laffan, S.McMullan 3 June 1996 Climb up below the overlap as before, and then head out rightwards cleaning the barnacles off your boots before committing yourself to lay past the overlap on its right. Again medium friends, and a small wire prove useful. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
73 - Old Salt
S 4aLength: 9m R.Laffan, D.Flynn 2 June 1996 For the next routes, abseil down the deep corner of The Plagiarist, which has a jammed block at the top. It is also possible to traverse in from the seaward (SW) end at low tide (Severe). From the base of the abseil, scramble easily 4m to the left. This route takes the crack passing to the left of the overlap above into the easier groove above. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
74 - The Plagiarist
No length recorded S.McMullan, P.Breen 2 June 1996 This takes the line of the main corner which you abseiled, starting beneath the roof at its base. Climb the wide black crack to the back of the roof. Step rightwards across the face until a breakthrough jam can be spied. A large hex placed at the lip will prevent the rope being eaten. Continue up the pleasant ramp and pull over the suspended fang. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
75 - Kept Woman
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D No length recorded D.Flynn, R.Laffan 2 June 1996 For the next three routes on this wall, abseil down Kept Woman to a ledge that curves out to a point. You can belay in a niche on its sheltered side when the tide or swell is big. No matter which route you do, the situation of this ledge is great! From a good ledge to the right of the corner, there is a prominent series of slanting cracks running leftwards to the top of the corner. Enjoyable climbing up these in a great situation leads to the crux exit past the jammed block. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
76 - Asgard
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E1 5bNo length recorded M.Daly, S.McMullan Right of the last route there is an impressive clean wall with a large square cut cave to its right which is only really visible after abseiling. The next routes are on this wall. Starts from the same ledge as Kept Woman and climbs the first crack on this wall to meet a triangular overhang at its right hand end. Climb the crack on good jams (Crux) to the overhang. One hard move up right of the overhang leads to good jugs out on the left. Pull across onto the easier upper slab that is climbed to the top .View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
77 - Cois Farraige
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HVS 5aNo length recorded P.Breen, S.McMullan 2 June 1996 Climbs crack up the wall right of Asgard until it meets the easier upper slab. Continue up this to the top. Sustained and well protected. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
78 - Cois Tra
No length recorded M.Daly, O.O'Regan 6 July 1996 The crack right of Cois Farraige. Abseil to the small break at sea level in the centre of the wall. Take a semi hanging belay. Climb the curving crack to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
79 - Chicken Shit
No length recorded M.Daly, O.O'Regan 6 July 1996 (Check for Nesting Cormorants). Start from the same belay as Cois Tra. Climb into niche and follow to overhang. Climb this on the left on big jugs. Proceed with haste past a large ledge and heavily "chalked" area and climb the left slanting groove to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
80 - Beal na Blath
No length recorded M.Daly, S.McMullan 21, Sept 1996 Start from the bottom right hand side of the wall right of Chicken Shit. Abseil to a ledge a few feet above sea level. Belay on the abseil rope. Climb the wall leftwards on positive holds to a good ledge and runners. Climb the crack above (crux) which leads to a square cut ledge. Finish by a mantle shelf. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
81 - Calvin's Route
No length recorded C. Torrans, C Sheridan The next routes are on the High Buttress between the large caves. Abseil to large tidal ledge Description to be supplied View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
82 - Pride Of All
No length recorded M.Daly, P.McGarrity(2 rest points) 16 June 1996 Start under the large "table" platform. Climb the wall on small holds and gain height using the corner on the right. At the wide section of the corner (No. 3.5 friend) move left to gain the sharp flake. Pull across to reach a small foothold. Climb the overhanging finger crack to top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
82a - Possible new route?
E4 6cLength: 25m Nick Colton and Martin Doyle 18.9. 2005 We're not sure whether this is a new route so haven't named it yet. The route climbs a very direct line up the wall between Pride of All (IG 95) and Fortune's Arete (IG 96) in the guidebook. Description: Just left of the start of Fortunes's Arete, climb the wall to a prominent flake crack. Up this to a ledge. Continue direct keeping the big overhang to your left, to attain the huge ledge below the top. From there, finish by climbing the obvious short leftwards slanting crack to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
83 - Fortune's Arête
No length recorded A. Anderson, C. Bullsh... Takes the crack system and Arête at the right end of Twin Cave Buttress. Start beneath the crack just left of the Arête, gaining this from the left. Follow this keeping left of the Arête until a narrow ledge at two-thirds height is traversed to gain the Arête proper. Continue up this on easier ground. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
84 - Atlantic Storm
No length recorded P. Breen, P Harrington Mostly HVS with one hard sequence. Climb the wide crack to the right of the arête. Continue through a bulge till the crack disappears. Using a handhold on the face above move left to get established at the base of two thin parallel cracks. (Friend 0 useful). A hard move up and the cracks widen. Follow these more easily to the top View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
85 - Flake Out
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VS 5aNo length recorded P.Breen, S.McMullan 29 June 1996 Mostly easy climbing with the crux at the start. Start below a wide crack right of the arête (crux). Before reaching the wide crack move right to the base of a wide groove system. Climb the left hand side of this to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
86 - Ten Thirty
No length recorded M.Daly, P.McGarrity 15/6/96 The route follows the rib at the right hand side of the large ledge. Climb the black rib to the top. Poor protection. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
82b - Jolly hockey sticks
Length: 25m A. Sarhan, J. Gernon summer 99 Start directly below the big overhang, climb up to the corner below
overhang, climb corner (crux) then climb overhang and to the top.
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