Route Number: 1057

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Asgard * * *

Location: Gola - Twin Cave Buttress Area
Grade: E1  5b
Length: No length recorded
First ascent: M.Daly, S.McMullan
Route Description:

Right of the last route there is an impressive clean wall with a large square cut cave to its right which is only really visible after abseiling. The next routes are on this wall.

Starts from the same ledge as Kept Woman and climbs the first crack on this wall to meet a triangular overhang at its right hand end. Climb the crack on good jams (Crux) to the overhang. One hard move up right of the overhang leads to good jugs out on the left. Pull across onto the easier upper slab that is climbed to the top

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Photo of Route
Gabhla Island Donegal - Frankie McCloskey urging on a climber in a jam
Comments

Kevin Kilroy - 14/07/2011
E1 5b and three stars for sure.

Ryan Hurson - 13/06/2011
Done this one last weekend, amazing route. Thought it was a wee bit harder than the HVS grade that was in the old guide book, E1 seems about right. Plenty of protection though!

Peter Cooper - 11/06/2011
Good comments. Noted.

Ronan Kernan - 09/06/2011
Aha but that would involve having a guide rather than a photocopy of the Gola pages. Suggested description as follows: From the right hand side of the same ledge as Kept Woman, take the crack right of the recess and follow it to where it meets the overhang and its right hand end. One hard move up right of the overhang leads to good jugs out on the left. Pull across onto the easier upper slab that is climbed to the top. I wouldn't doubt the E1 5b grade or 3 star quality of the route when climbed this way, after having accidentally seconded this route when trying to do Cois Farraige!

Kevin - 08/06/2011
I think there is a nice big colour photo of climbers on Asgard and Cois Farraige at the back of the guide. Also then suggest a new description and give an opinion on the grade and quality.

Ronan Kernan - 08/06/2011
The description's misleading for this one - did what I thought was this the other day but turned out to be a combination of Asgard and Kept Woman - no wonder the start felt easy. It isn't the first crack off the ledge, it's the second one. Also it's hard to tell Asgard and Cois Farraige apart.

Iain Miller - 20/09/2007
An excellent route worthy of it's 3 stars!

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