Name: Climbfest 2024
Start: 2024-05-03T00:00:00+00:00
End: 2024-05-06T23:59:59+00:00
Location: Malin Head

Editor: Culdaff (Dunmore Head) Left Crags.
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Crag Profile: Culdaff (Dunmore Head) Left Crags.
Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes
Left Crag Dunmore Head - A) Boulder problem/short route B) Boulder problem/short route C) February Freeze Up D) Anorexia E) Subduction Zone F) Scratch G) Snatch H) The Clegg I) Tiger Balm J) Daddy Bear K) Ivy Slalom L) Egg and Spoon Race M) Pretty and Pink N) Peewee Runt and his Dixieland Flea Band O) Snakes and Ladders P) Boomerang
Directions: These are the outcrops left of the most popular crag. These outcrops need regular attention to prevent them becoming overgrown and difficult of access. Recently they have been left to the nesting birds, although there are a number of good quality routes, if you have the will to recover them. OS Grid Reference: C550498 Click here to view location in Google Maps

To the far left of the Dunmore's Main Crags is a short gully, at he right hand edge of the wall on the gully's right is 'Flakes'.

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1 - Flakes HS 4c Length: 4m Peter Cooper Step onto boulder in a small niche, arrange slings round dubious looking pair of flakes; climb up and finish up left trending ramp/corner. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
2 - Slab and crack * VD Length: 7m Peter Cooper To the right of Flakes, on the face there's a slab and erm well...a crack. Route goes...I'll let you work it out! On-sight solo, then cleaned. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route

Right of 'Slab and Crack' is a blank wall, the following climbs are on the short face right of this.

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3 - Whin Some Lose Some VS 5a Length: 7m P.Cooper,A.Tees and A.Tees 22/09/02 Leftmost crack and everything left of it. Situated at left hand end of Whin Buttress. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
4 - Whin Buttress Easy D Length: 7m P.Cooper & S.McDaid R.hand side of butress. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
5 - Whin Buttress Central route S 4b Length: 7m P.Cooper & S. McDaid Central line up Buttress between main crack and r. hand corner. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
6 - Revenge of the Whins S 4b Length: 7m P.Cooper & S. McDaid Line between up main crack and face, not using the high corner. "Removal of lots of whins on this buttress led to it's present cleaned condition..it was painful!" View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route

The true Left Hand Crag. 'Fruits...' starts beneath a pinnacle at the left hand end.

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7 - Fruits of one's labours VS 4c Length: 9m P. Cooper & A. Tees 04/12/04 At the left hand of the crag there is a sentinel, start below this at a fine crack and a detatched block climb these, at the top go for exposed face/top out to the left. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
8 - February Freeze-up * * S 4a Length: 10m M Patton, P Flood Climb crack at left of the overhang, gain a wider crack then up left to corner leading to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
9 - Anorexia * VS 4c Length: 10m Paula Turley (7/4/84) Takes the deep crack through overhang 3m right of February Freeze-up. Only for the slender figure. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
10 - Subduction Zone * E2 6a Length: 10m A Millar, P Dunlop (17/5/87) The gash in the overhang right of 'Anorexia' and left of 'How Do Chimney'. Make some moves up to a ledge. Advance upwards with difficultly to a good hand hold and a large nut, continue bridging to a flat hold high on the right; difficulties are over for the time being when you get stood on this. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
11 - How Do Chimney HVS 5b Length: 10m P.Cooper & B.Wingham 19/04/05 Left of 'Scratch' is a left facing corner, climb up this, step out onto right-hand buttress to gain bottomless chimney. Tougher than it looked. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
12 - Scratch S 4a Length: 10m P Turley, G Ellis (12/5/85) Start: At detached pinnacle about 5m right of Anorexia. Climb short steep wall to cleaned ledge. Up easily to long ledge. Step right to twin cracks, up these to top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
13 - Snatch S Length: 8m P Turley (solo) (13/5/85) Start: To the right of Scratch, a variety of routes lead easily to the foot of a crescent shaped crack. Climb this to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
14 - The Clegg * VS 4c Length: 8m A Tees, P Smith (12/8/97) Dynamic climbing up the overhanging arete to the left of 'Tiger Balm', using undercuts and spikes. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
15 - Tiger Balm S 4a Length: 8m A Tees, P Smith (23/2/97) Right of the left crag there is a short bulging face. This takes the steep corner at the right hand side. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route

The crag becomes broken, until 'Daddy Bear'; which lies to the left of the clean corner that contains the start of 'Ivy Slalom'.

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16 - Big Bockan Crack VD - Length: 15m Alan Tees, Bill Magowan Five Metres left of "Ivy Slalom" the slab is split by a big easy off-width. Climb this, and up corner above to ledge, and up right to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
17 - Daddy Bear VD Length: 12m J Rotherham, G Hamilton The route at the right edge of the white slab. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
18 - Ivy Slalom * HS 4b Length: 12m J Rotherham, B Patton, M Patton 1 m right of the white slab, and just left of the overhangs, is a right-angled corner which is climbed. Continue up easier ground to a wall right of short gully. Climb wall on small but good holds. A good climb. Left arete goes at about 5a. Wall with sharp pocket, left of I.S.'s start also about 5a. *HVS 5b Highball, 2m r. of I.S. are a pair of parallel cracks, undercut at base, pull up these onto face and go up to broken ledge; gear is minimal View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
19 - Egg-and-Spoon Race * E2 5c Length: 12m P Dunlop, B Martin (Summer 1989) Start at the corner/groove right of Ivy Slalom. Climb easily up to the big break below the overhang. Climb up through the groove above on unfriendly jams (crux). View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
20 - Girding someone-else's loins E1 5c Length: 17m P.Cooper & M. McGinty20/04/07 As for 'Egg and Spoon Race' until a step right can be made onto the toe of the slab on the right. A diagonally-rising-traverse goes up to a shallow corner, continue rightwards to gain the horizontal break; finish as for 'Pretty and Pink'. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
21 - Pretty and Pink * E2 6a Length: 12m A Millar, D Millar (1997) Between Egg and Spoon Race and Peewee Runt, and with difficulty, place small nuts in opposition and move up with aid of small crack about 1 m left of 'Peewee'to claim slab. Continue to break and move leftward through weakness in overhang to top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
22 - Peewee Runt & his Dixieland Flea Band E2 6a Length: 12m A Millar, G Colhoun (1988) This route climbs through the triangular niche at the right-hand side of the overhang, left of Snakes and Ladders. Start as for Snakes and Ladders. Go up the short slab, and then up the awkward crack on the left to a rest below the overhang. Climb on awkwardly through the niche on poor finger-locks to the top View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
23 - Snakes and Ladders VS 4c Length: 12m J Rotherham, B McDermott Climb the slab avoiding the overhangs by slipping rightwards through the keyhole and out onto spike. Step out left and pull up to finish (crux). View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
24 - Garryowen S 4a Length: 20m Alan Tees, Martin McGuigan 22/03/08 The slab of "Snakes & Ladders" and up into corner before traversing left below the overhangs all the way across to the top of 'Ivy Slalom's' start. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
25 - Boomerang VD Length: 12m B Patton, M Patton This goes up the arete and rib at the right-hand side of the crag. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route

The Seaward Crag Go through the gully at the far left end of the crag and continue walking (1 minute) until you can look up right to a high crag leading up to the skyline.

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26 - The Hillwalker Strikes Back HS 4b Length: 30m A Tees, G Colhoun (7/89) The first route climbs the wall left of the taller, left-hand corner. "The Hillwalker Strikes Back",starts at the centre of the steep, clean wall left of the higher corner. Move up past cracks to gain the left-hand edge of the ramp of the corner (crux). Continue up the edge and climb the wall above on good holds and jams to gain an exposed arete. Climb the arete over steps, the first one being dubious, to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
27 - Black Perception * * S 4a Length: 25m A Tees, S Hamilton 1/6/89) This route climbs the left-hand corner. Float up it until it becomes vertical just below a dubiouslooking spike. Move up left of the spike and step across right onto a ledge to finish. Good route, and probably the only one worth doing in this part of the cliff. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
28 - Verdance VD - Length: 20m A Tees, V Russell (8/6/89) The shorter right-hand corner. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
29 - Gofrit S 4a Length: 8m G Colhoun, J Watt, K Colhoun (7/89) This rips up the short, steep wall right of Verdance. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
30 - Dusty Dream HS 4b Length: 30m Alan Tees, Margaret Quinn 28/05/15 Start in the next corner left (East) of Black Perception. Climb the middle of the slab using a fairly well defined groove, veer left, and exit the slab at an obvious point, to a good belay just above, on the heather. Continue up to a steep wall split by an obvious crack. Dynamic climbing on good holds and protection lead to the top. Belay stake in place. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
31 - Camino Verticale HS 4b Length: 30m Alan Tees, Marty McGuigan 19th Sept 2015 Start in the leftmost of the three corners, just right of Dusty Dream. Climb the corner and move right using dynamic high pockets and side pulls to gain a slanting ledge (crux). Continue up more easily through broad chimney to final slighly overhanging tower, which is ascended on good positive holds and rock. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route