Name: Midsummer trip
Start: 2024-06-21T00:00:00+00:00
End: 2024-06-23T23:59:59+00:00

Editor: Culdaff (Dunmore) Finbarr Wall
What would you like to do today?
Add a route to this crag	Add an inter-route note to this crag
Delete routes on this crag	Update the order of routes on this crag
Edit the details of this crag	Return to the editor homepage

Crag Profile: Culdaff (Dunmore) Finbarr Wall
Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes
Waiting for Cyril
Directions: A delightful cragette. To get to it from the top of the main crag, go over the headland in a North-East direction until you arrive at the top of the crag overlooking the sea. Alternatively walk up the road and follow the first lane at the right hand bend and go through the gate, follow the path on the wall's left-hand side; towards the sea. This approach gains the base of the crag easily. The routes are now described from left to right. OS Grid Reference: C558500 Click here to view location in Google Maps
01 - Tweeter and the Monkey man. * HS 4b Length: 12m Alan Tees & Peter McConnell 1/07/07 At the left end of Finbarr Wall is a pillar with a block at the top, just left of a big nest. Start just under, and climb a faint arete slightly rightwards, to reach a steep cracked wall. Exit via a mantleshelve onto the block at the top. Far better than looks suggest. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
02 - Grunting 'n' slapping * E1 5b Length: 8m P.Cooper & D.Millar 1/06/2007 3m left of 'Waiting for Cyril'.On the left of the flared rough cracks is smoother equally steep rock forming an apex to the rockface Climb towards the top spike, making a thin move left onto the smooth slab to finish. (Belay just below the final top-out.)NOTE the gear gets thinner the higher you get. Additionaly this may be 5c, comments welcome from future ascensionists. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route

4m right of this is the regular-cut corner crack of 'Waiting for Cyril'.

Edit note Upload a new photo for this note
03 - Waiting for Cyril * * VD Length: 12m A.Tees, M.Pailing 23/05/91 Climb the corner obvious clean cut corner. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
04 - The Donkey Derby VS 4c Length: 12m F Dympna, T Flynn (25/5/91) Climb the slabby wall/arete on the right of 'Waiting for Cyril'. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
05 - Granny Long Legs * * HVS 5a Length: 12m A Millar, N Grimes (25/5/91) This climbs up and into the hanging corner left of The Nameless. Steeply jam and bridge up this, exiting right at the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
06 - The Nameless VS 5b Length: 12m R Dunlop, P Dunlop (1988) This climbs the line a couple of metres left of the corner of a big spike. Continue directly into a niche and over the overhang on blocky holds. One in the eye for over-graders. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
07 - Zodiac * * E2 5c Length: 12m P Dunlop, R Dunlop (1988) Pumpy, satisfying climbing up the groove left of Other Fish. Start on top of the big boulder. Go up the little corner and step left onto the little ramp. Up this, and straight up the steep wall above using handfuls of rough holds. Exciting. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
08 - Other Fish * E4 6b Length: 13m N Grimes, B Callan, P Dunlop (all led) (6/91) The steep, blank-looking, wall between 'Zodiac' and 'RuthIess People'. Boulder up on positive holds to get stood on these. Gear in fine horizontal break. A perplexing rock-up up and right leads to a good hold shared with 'Ruthless People'. Traverse left to a vertical crack, proceed up this to finish. At the upper end of the grade. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
09 - Ruthless People * * E4 6b Length: 10m N Grimes, A Millar (both lead) (25/5/91) Desperate climbing up the crack on the right, strenuous and fingery. Start at the bottom of the grass ramp. A bout of sporadic snatching allows upward momentum, past a couple of wires (hard to place) and a good hold to be caught on the horizontal break left of the crack. Place small wires here, and strike on directly to the top. Brilliant View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route

The next climb is across to the right, in the first square-cut corner.

Edit note Upload a new photo for this note
11 - Calamari Corner * VD 4b Length: 12m P. Cooper (solo) 14/05/07 Corner of first bay right of 'Ruthless People'. 2nd ascent by Alan Tees, same day. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
22 - Calamari Wallies S 4a Length: 10m Alan Tees, Anthony Feeney, Chris Miller 12/07/2016 Start below and to the right of Calamari Corner. A steep finger pull up onto the arête above, leads to the wall to the right of the corner. Move out right to the edgeand continue up on small holds and horizontal breaks. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
10 - Pushing String * E2 5b Length: 8m P.Cooper & G.Thomas 24/05/09 To the right of Ruthless People and 1/2 way up the descent corner place a belayer. The climber now climbs a leftward traversing route, until below a step in the headwall; climb up to this for finish. A deceptively pumpy line, otherwise it would be E1. Peter Cooper's last new line before that accident. Traversing further left into finish shared with Other Fish would merit 5c. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
23 - Ascension HS 4b Length: 12m Alan Tees, Chris Miller, Anthony Feeney 12/07/2016 Right of Calamari Corner is a step wall. This route climbs a steep edge to a ledge, surmounts a spike just below a hanging corner. To levitate above the spike looks problematic but divine handholds appear, and the same individual provides a couple of little toe holds, just reachable. Ascent into the corner, up to a small platform and right, to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route

Across to the right are the next routes, Mosquito etc, on a pillar of rock.

Edit note Upload a new photo for this note
12 - Mosquito S 4a Length: 10m Alan Tees, Peter Cooper 14/05/07 5m left of Dunmore Damage is a stepped arete. Climb the first step by a leaning rightward trending crack. Up onto another block and up the groove on the arete. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
30 - Love in the time of Corona. S 4a Length: 10m Alan and Margaret Tees 21/05/20 Just left of ‘Mosquito’ is an alcove, with a large clod of earth and vegetation at the bottom. At the RHS of this is a wall split by two cracks forming a V. Take the wider righthand crack to a ledge, then step up onto a boulder and climb the arete above. Mosquito can be used to protect, and possibly assist, getting up onto the arete. Doing it direct is about 4c. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
31 - Good Friday S 4a** Length: 10m Alan & Margaret Tees 21/05/20 Start as for ‘Love in the time of Corona’, but climb the LH crack, step left onto the wall, and climb it up to the overhang. Large flakes provide big holds as you make a dramatic step right onto a foothold on the lip of the roof. Easy to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
32 - Scarecrow S 4a Length: 7m Alan Tees, Bill S. Hunt. April 20 Start just right of ‘Mosquito’, on 2 short wide cracks to ledge. A thin move right, and climb a pair of narrow shallow corners to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route

The following routes are on the next outcrop to the right of Mosquito etc.

Edit note Upload a new photo for this note
20 - Conntrived D - Length: 10m Alfie Conn, Damian Connolly 24 Apr 2016 Just left of Dunmore Damage is a small undercut slab. Go up its left edge. Then lay back up the next arete to the final slab below the summit. Go straight up this. Escapable but very pleasant, especially in the middle. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
21 - Practice Run * D - Length: 10m Damian Connolly, Alfie Conn 24/4/16 Start as for Dunmore Damage and go up the corner for a few metres until below the niche. Go up to this and the top. Lovely holds and good nut protection. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
13 - Dunmore Damage * S 4a Length: 12m Alan Tees, Peter Cooper 19/04/07 The next niche left of Finbarrs Furry Fissure. Up onto jammed rock, right to ledge and straight up the face just left of the arete. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
19 - Pocket Pearl HS 4b Length: 10m Alan Tees, Neil Machon, Geoff Thomas 28/03/16 This takes the arête just right of Dunmore Damage. Start as for Finbarr's Furry Fissure and move left to the arête. A long reach secures a pocket (crux) and continue up the arête to the top on good holds. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
14 - Finbarr's Furry Fissure S 4a Length: 12m Alan Tees, Peter Cooper 19/04/07 The prominent fist crack just left of "Redford Classic". Overcome buldge, up crack easily (great thread on the edge). At the top of the crack step left and finish up fine airy rock. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
15 - Redford Classic * * S 4a Length: 12m Alan Tees, Peter Cooper 18/04/07 Right, and below the other routes, but on the same rockband, is a prominent corner, overhung half way up. Bridge up to the overhang to gain good jugs, and continue up the corner on delightful rock. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
16 - Inishtrahull * HS 4b Length: 12m P.Cooper & A. Tees 18/04/07 Centre of wall, on immediate right of redford Classic. Start at the toe of the short slab, continue through small overlaps; direct direct for the top. Nice one-star line, with a scenic top-out; depending on the weather. Grade confirmed at HS. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
17 - Blonde Moments S 4a Length: 12m Peter McConnell, Alan Tees 1/07/07 Takes the external corner right of Redford Classic, and just right of Inistrahull. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
18 - Dun Bheag Crack VD Length: 10m Alan Tees, Peter Cooper 14/05/07 About 10m further right from "Redford Classic" is an obvious crackline on the right wall of a corner. Climb the thin crack, step right and continue up it's big sister. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route

The next routes begin on the coastal rocks, 5 minutes walk north of Finbarr Wall, beside a huge cave.
Inter-Route Note
Edit note Upload a new photo for this note
24 - Creole Girl VD - Length: 10m Alan Tees, Geoff Thomas 22/05/19 At the east end of Dunmore Head is a great cave ( about 5 minutes walk from the other Finbarr routes) and on the east side of the cave is a black slab of compact rock. Short scramble descent on the left. Creole slab, has many possibilities on numerous cracks on great rock, alas a bit short! Creole Girl takes the obvious crack from the lowest part of the corner at low tide. Just right of a shallow depression in the centre. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
25 - Sea Pink VS 4c Length: 10m Geoff Thomas, Alan Tees 22/05/19 This takes a steep crackline up the end wall of the next promontory to the south east of Creole Slab. Short but strenuous and worth a star of two. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
26 - Pocket Rocket D - Length: 10m Alan Tees, Geoff Thomas 22/05/19 Back along the coastal rocks in a south easterly direction (nearer Finbarr wall) follow a slabby promontory running roughly parallel to the coast and separated by a narrow channel on the right. At the end of this, the angle of the cliff steepens to give some climbing on remarkable rock. Pocket Rocket is the most obvious corner feature, climbed using (mostly pockets) of course. Could probably be scrambled down to, but abseil to a ledge is easy, certainly at lowish tides. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
27 - The Hobbit VD - Length: 10m Alan Tees, Geoff Thomas 22/05/19 A few metres left of Pocket Rocket, climb a fin of rock, and straight up the steep wall above, on brilliant holds, to its highest point. Pity it wasn't longer. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
28 - Small Pocks HS 4b Length: 10m Geoff Thomas, Alan Tees 22/05/19 A metre or two right of Pocket Rocket, go straight up the steep wall on a selection of pockets and finger fissures. Brilliant and worth stars. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
29 - The Water Margin S 4a Length: 10m Geoff Thomas, Alan Tees 22/05/19 Seaward from Pocket Rocket etc, descend a few metres to a ledge, and do a' coasteer' on the amazing parallel cracks in the wall, until they run out or you fall in the sea. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route