Route Number: 1119

Back to Crag Editor page | Back to Guidebook Editor page

Diversion * *

Location: Bingorm West (Lough Barra)
Grade: S  4a
Length: 115m
First ascent: P Kenny, F Winder (Alt leads) (9/55)
Route Description:
Start: As for Triversion. The description given below does not follow exactly the original line but makes the best of the clean rock. Many variations are possible. Generally the route takes a fairly direct line up the clean sweep of slabs, to finish through the short steep headwall as Triversion.
  1. 30m Climb the rib as Triversion but then move right across slabs to ledge below vegetated ledges.
  2. 25m Climb the narrow pocked ramp on the right of the slabs and immediately left of the vegetation. Move back right to a ledge level with top of vegetated ramp.
  3. Move 30m up right side of slab, then, at a spike, go right to niche.
  4. Finish as for Triversion up the steep clean corner to the left of the overhang.

Comments

Peter C - 22/03/2011
Goodness Mr Smith, such language!!!!!!!! Hope to see you, and your infamous britches at the Climbfest.

Hugh Boyle - 17/03/2011
Must have done the wrong start the few times i did these routes. Must go back up and have a look.

Pete Smith - 17/03/2011
I'd sooner have soiled britches than shit for brains.

Peter Cooper - 16/03/2011
How advantageous Pete, both your hobbies accommodated at once - well nearly. But sometimes it's all in the anticipation!

Pete Smith - 16/03/2011
I climbed it on New Year's Day with Frankie and Raymond Gallagher about ten years ago. When it came to leading my pitch, the misty rain had made everything soaking and I nearly soiled my britches. It felt like E2 that day!

alan blair - 15/03/2011
soloed it years ago - don't remember any problem

Hugh Boyle - 14/03/2011
I dont know about anyone else but i find the first pitch of Diversion/Triversion bloody hard - more like VS

IM - 14/04/2010
Superb route! Well worthy of 2 stars!

Leave a Comment You must be logged in to leave a comment